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Keene Region

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Barkeater Cliff, The 
Cascade Cliff 
Owls Head Mountain 
Pitchoff Chimney Cliff 
Spruce Hill Crag 
UFO Wall 

Keene Region  


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Location: 44.2563, -73.79247 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Rafiki on Jun 28, 2007
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John Ciccone leading the last pitch of the mega cl...

Description 

The Keene Region contains all the crags around the town of Keene and up the road in Cascade Pass. Cascade Pass, in particular, is one of the most beautiful in the Adirondacks. The most popular crag in this area is the roadside Pitchoff Chimney Cliff. This crag may get some traffic during the weekends. Besides Pitchoff, the other most obvious crag in the pass is the huge wall on the southeast side of Lower Cascade Lake. This is Cascade Cliff which receives little traffic because most of the routes have "grown in" and likely contain loose rock.

Barkeater is accessible more directly from the town of Keene out Allstead Hill Road. The cliffs on Spruce Hill Road (route 9N) outside of Keene are also included in this region, including Hurricane Cliff.

Getting There 

Take I-87 North to Exit 30 (way the heck up there); make a LEFT at the end of the exit ramp, and follow Rt 9 as it winds up a gradual hill. Go straight through Malfunction Junction onto Route 73 and follow this over Chapel Pond Pass to Keene Valley, then onto Keene.

Cascade Lakes is located in a scenic mountain pass on 73 North of Keene Valley.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.1 miles from here

38 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',6],['5.8',6],['5.9',6],['5.10',10],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Keene Region:
Great Chimney   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Big Bertha   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Barkeater Cliff
Yakapodu   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Barkeater Cliff
Fun City   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Barkeater Cliff
Pete's Farewell   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
The El   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Eat Yourself a Pie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   The Barkeater Cliff
The Disputed   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Mr. Clean   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Barkeater Cliff
Wald-Calder Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
My Favorite Martian   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   UFO Wall
Overdog   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   The Barkeater Cliff
PF Flyers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Fun Country   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 130'   The Barkeater Cliff
Coffee Achievers   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Roaches on the Wall   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Rule of the Bone   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Barkeater Cliff
Rock and Roll Star   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Star Sailor   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Raging Raven   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Browse More Classics in Keene Region

Featured Route For Keene Region
Pete's Farewell beta

Pete's Farewell 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Pete's Farewell is the Pitchoff classic! Someone once told me the story behind the route's name. After the FA, Pete slipped off the top of the crag. Thinking Pete was dead, his partner looked over the edge to find him about 50ft below on a ledge screaming about his ankles.Pitch 1 - Climb the 30ft easy face to a ledge. 5.2Pitch 2 - Traverse the obvious line out left and up the dihedral to a belay next to the small pine. The lower traverse into the dihedral is slightly harder. 5.6 65ftPitch 3 - Wa...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

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