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Cascade Creek is Durango's answer to the ice park question. It lies just past Purgatory ski area at the foot of Coal Bank Summit. There is an amazing variety of climbing in this beautiful little canyon. The south side offers reliable flows in the WI3-WI5 range as well as some mixed lines. At least one of which is now bolted. The north side boasts wild mixed routes put up by the likes of Jared Ogden and Ryan Nelson. The canyon is small and the main flows on the south side can get crowded. Please be patient and above all, follow ethical protocols.
Follow US 550 north past Purgatory (Durango Mountain Resort). A mile past the ski area you will pass Cascade Village Condos on your left (west). The highway will then cut a tight harpin through Cascade Creek canyon. Just south of the hairpin, there is a pullout for the Cascade Village water treatment facility. You can usually park here, or continue around the hairpin to the north side of the canyon, where a snowmobile rental operation resides in winter. Park away from those guys. Access to the climbs is via rappel from trees on either side, or by following Lime Creek Road (the road continuing east past the snowmobile guys) to a cattleguard. This road is usually plowed but parking along it is not suggested. Just past the cattleguard a trail is sometimes stomped to the bottom of the canyon. Follow the creekbed west up the canyon for a beautiful walk to the climbs.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cascade Creek:
Night Shift M5-6 Trad, Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 50'
Cascade Canyon Main Flows WI4-5 M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Ice
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