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Cascade Canyon has a decent selection of sport routes. This is a nice summer climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Some of the routes can be wet and/or dirty from runoff and most are in the 5.11 to 5.12 range, some easier and harder ones can be found as well. The climbing is on a slick, vertical limestone. Most of the routes are on the east side of the canyon - divided into the Canyon Entrace area, Roof Area, Free Tibet Sector and Pool Area. The West Side has a handful of climbs as well, but is most often visited during the winter months for ice/mixed climbing.
From Durango, drive north on US Hwy 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. You will see a sign for Cascade Creek and a dirt road. Park a short distance up the dirt road and look for a climber's trail heading down into the canyon on the right side. There is a limited amount of parking on the side of the dirt road, but this is usually not a problem.
42 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cascade Canyon:
Tibet ArÍte (originally submitted as Track Team) 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80' Free Tibet Sector
Featured Route For Cascade Canyon
El Rancho 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c CO : Durango : ... : Roof Area
Peanuts, sticky floors, cheep beers, and girls looking to make bad decisions. You'd be hard pressed to find a climber in DGO who hasn't had a night of fun and fornication at this classic dive bar.With no defined crux and zero fluff climbing, this route comes down to pure endurance. Expect big, thuggy moves on mostly good holds with little opportunity for rest. Begin by squeezing your way out the prominent arete feature. Fight your way into the underclings in the roof and transition onto the beau...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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