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Cascade Canyon

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Canyon Entrance 
Free Tibet Sector 
Pool Area 
Roof Area 
West Side 

Cascade Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 37.65774, -107.80962 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,135
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2006
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Cascade Canyon in the fall.


Cascade Canyon is another nice piece of the Durango climbing scene. This scenic little canyon is host to a good selection of limestone sport routes. Most are in the 5.11 to 5.12 range. There is a small handful of easier routes (5.10 and under), and there has been a recent resurgence in the development of some harder routes. This is a nice summer climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Some of the routes can be wet and dirty from runoff. Most of the routes are on the east side of the canyon - divided into the Canyon Entrace area, Roof Area, Free Tibet Sector and Pool Area. The West Side has a handful of climbs as well but is most often visited during the winter months for ice and mixed climbing.

Getting There 

From Durango, drive north on US Hwy 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. Take a right on Old Lime Creek Road and park after a short distance at a small pullout on the right and a "No Fireworks" sign. Look for a climber's trail heading down into the canyon.

Rock Climbing Photo: Parking and trail for Cascade Canyon.
Parking and trail for Cascade Canyon.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

46 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',27],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cascade Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cascade Canyon:
Worthy aka GoGo Ibari   V9-10 7C+     Boulder, 10'   Pool Area
One Summer's Eve   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Pool Area
Colorfest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Pool Area
Genesis (aka Face)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Canyon Entrance
Book of Life (aka Book)   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Canyon Entrance
The War Has Started   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Pool Area
Summer of '69   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Free Tibet Sector
Free Tibet   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Free Tibet Sector
Close To The Edge   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pool Area
Boys of Summer   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Free Tibet Sector
A Gentlehoe   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Roof Area
The Red Sea   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Canyon Entrance
30 and Dirty   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Canyon Entrance
Some People Poop   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Free Tibet Sector
Tibet ArĂȘte (originally submitted as Track Team)   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Free Tibet Sector
Reverse Cowgirl    5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Free Tibet Sector
La Cantina   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Roof Area
El Rancho    5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Roof Area
Hammer and a Carrot    5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Free Tibet Sector
Huffy   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Roof Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cascade Canyon

Featured Route For Cascade Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning of the business.

Reverse Cowgirl 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  CO : Durango : ... : Free Tibet Sector
This route is fantastic! It is a gently overhanging, power endurance, fun factory where finger strength and fancy footwork are the key to maximum funning! Start with a few bolts of enjoyably .11- climbing. Get an almost jug at the third bolt, and prepare thyself as the angle steepens and the holds get significantly more fun (smaller) and no rest till you clip the anchors!The grade is a rough estimate, I really have no idea. It's definitely 5th class though, that's for sure. As for the name, it...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Cascade Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Close to the Edge can be seen on the right.
Close to the Edge can be seen on the right.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Pool.
The Pool.
Rock Climbing Photo: Drew on the main flow, Cascade Canyon.
Drew on the main flow, Cascade Canyon.

Comments on Cascade Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Sep 4, 2012
Who the hell is bolting routes at Cascade? Doesn't everyone know that they are just bolting choss. I've already looked at those lines years ago, and they look like they are screaming trash. I mean climbing is here for us, we shouldn't be disturbing the balance of nature. Keep your bolts to yourself, because all the other bolted lines were natural.
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Sep 13, 2012
Glad to see new routes going in. As one of the original developers, we always knew there were a few gems left. Gotta get over there and try the new stuff. Thanks to those making the effort.
By Erik Durgin
Oct 25, 2012
There are a handful of routes in the canyon with draws hanging on them. They were not abandoned or left by accident. People are projecting these routes and the draws are intentionally left in place to ease the process.

Feel free to climb on them, but PLEASE leave them in place!
By Nolan Robertson
Jun 14, 2013
If you find a dog here, please contact me, my number is (local)-7494416
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jun 17, 2013
Doesn't the sign say Lime Creek on the highway? It is Lime Creek road.

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