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Cascade Canyon in the fall. DescriptionCascade Canyon has a decent selection of sport routes. This is a nice summer climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Some of the routes can be wet and/or dirty from runoff and most are in the 5.11 to 5.12 range, some easier and harder ones can be found as well. The climbing is on a slick, vertical limestone. Most of the routes are on the east side of the canyon - divided into the Canyon Entrace area, Roof Area, Free Tibet Sector and Pool Area. The West Side has a handful of climbs as well, but is most often visited during the winter months for ice/mixed climbing. Getting ThereFrom Durango, drive north on HWY 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. You will see a sign for Cascade Creek and a dirt road. Park a short distance up the dirt road and look for a climbers trail heading down into the canyon on the right side. There is a limited amount of parking on the side of the dirt road, but this is usually not a problem. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cascade Canyon:
Worthy aka GoGo Ibari V9-10 Boulder, 10 feet Pool Area
One Summer's Eve 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Pool Area
Handcrack Corner 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Roof Area
Genesis 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch Canyon Entrance
Book of Life 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch Canyon Entrance
The War Has Started 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch Pool Area
Free Tibet 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Free Tibet Sector
Close To The Edge 5.11+ Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Pool Area
Reverse Cowgirl 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Free Tibet Sector
Featured Route For Cascade Canyon
 This route is fantastic! A gently overhanging power endurance fun factory where finger strength and fancy footwork are the key to maximum funning! Start with a few bolts of enjoyably .11- climbing. Get an almost jug at the third bolt, and prepare thyself as the angle steepens and the holds get significantly more fun (smaller)and no rest till you clip the anchors!The grade is a rough estimate, I really have no idea. It's definitely 5th class though, that's for sure. As for the name, it really w...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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