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Cascade Canyon has a decent selection of sport routes. This is a nice summer climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Some of the routes can be wet and/or dirty from runoff and most are in the 5.11 to 5.12 range, some easier and harder ones can be found as well. The climbing is on a slick, vertical limestone. Most of the routes are on the east side of the canyon - divided into the Canyon Entrace area, Roof Area, Free Tibet Sector and Pool Area. The West Side has a handful of climbs as well, but is most often visited during the winter months for ice/mixed climbing.
From Durango, drive north on US Hwy 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. You will see a sign for Cascade Creek and a dirt road. Park a short distance up the dirt road and look for a climber's trail heading down into the canyon on the right side. There is a limited amount of parking on the side of the dirt road, but this is usually not a problem.
43 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cascade Canyon:
Tibet ArÍte (originally submitted as Track Team) 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80' Free Tibet Sector
Featured Route For Cascade Canyon
La Cantina 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b CO : Durango : ... : Roof Area
La Cantina is a fantastic addition to the Roof Wall. Fun movement on some of the best rock in the canyon makes this route a must do!Start by hugging your way up the first two bolts of El Rancho. From the undercling block below bolt #3, cruise left on fun, swingy jugs to get established on a nice, juggy ledge. Rest up and launch into the pumpy mid-section of the route. Pass some taxing clips (#6-7), and power through the crux on big sidepulls, big deadpionts, and small fe...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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