Cascade Canyon has a decent selection of sport routes. This is a nice summer climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a nice mix of sun and shade. Some of the routes can be wet and/or dirty from runoff and most are in the 5.11 to 5.12 range, some easier and harder ones can be found as well. The climbing is on a slick, vertical limestone. Most of the routes are on the east side of the canyon - divided into the Canyon Entrace area, Roof Area, Free Tibet Sector and Pool Area. The West Side has a handful of climbs as well, but is most often visited during the winter months for ice/mixed climbing.
From Durango, drive north on HWY 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. You will see a sign for Cascade Creek and a dirt road. Park a short distance up the dirt road and look for a climbers trail heading down into the canyon on the right side. There is a limited amount of parking on the side of the dirt road, but this is usually not a problem.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cascade Canyon:
This route is fantastic! A gently overhanging power endurance fun factory where finger strength and fancy footwork are the key to maximum funning! Start with a few bolts of enjoyably .11- climbing. Get an almost jug at the third bolt, and prepare thyself as the angle steepens and the holds get significantly more fun (smaller)and no rest till you clip the anchors!The grade is a rough estimate, I really have no idea. It's definitely 5th class though, that's for sure. As for the name, it really w...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Does anyone know the names and ratings of the two sport routes right of Colorfest? Both climb roofs and the one to the right has an eye bolt on the first bolt and an older hanger on the second bolt. I don't think either are listed on MP.
If anyone found a Panasonic drill, left hand ascender with a black aider, and blue hammer in the parking area at Cascade, please let me know. On Friday the 10th, I was at Cascade bolting a new route and like a total idiot, I forgot to pack these extremely important pieces of gear on my way out. I can only prey that some honest climbers picked it up before anyone else. PLEASE call me if you found this gear. I will be forever indebted!
Who the hell is bolting routes at Cascade? Doesn't everyone know that they are just bolting choss. I've already looked at those lines years ago, and they look like they are screaming trash. I mean climbing is here for us, we shouldn't be disturbing the balance of nature. Keep your bolts to yourself, because all the other bolted lines were natural.
There are a handful of routes in the canyon with draws hanging on them. They were not abandoned or left by accident. People are projecting these routes and the draws are intentionally left in place to ease the process.
Feel free to climb on them, but PLEASE leave them in place!