Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mt. Shasta
Select Route:
Avalanche Gulch 
Casaval Ridge 
Green Butte Ridge 
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge 

Casaval Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I British: M 1b Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Snow, Alpine, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I British: M 1b [details]
FA: FA: 1963, Bob Rears and Jack Davidson
Season: Spring/Winter
Page Views: 4,765
Submitted By: Ryan Kosh on Nov 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
steep

Description 

This is a great training route that can be done in a long day, though most will choose to spend a night on the ridge. Probably the best route from the Bunny Flat Trailhead.


Location 

From Horse Camp climb the obvious ridge to the left. This joins Casaval at about 9,800 ft. Follow this ridge to the base of Misery Hill and then to the top.

Descent via West Face Gully or Avalanche Gulch is the easiest choice for parties doing this without setting up a base camp. Otherwise, descend back down the route (this is the safer choice during high avalanche danger as well).


Protection 

Solo. Some parties choose to bring a rope and a few pickets to belay the exposed "catwalk" depending on conditions and experience.



Photos of Casaval Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
the "Catwalk."
BETA PHOTO: the "Catwalk."
Looking back after gaining the ridge. About 10,500?
Looking back after gaining the ridge. About 10,500...
Just before the Catwalk
Just before the Catwalk
A party on one of the steeper portions of the ridge.
BETA PHOTO: A party on one of the steeper portions of the ridg...
Casaval Ridge is the ridgeline on the left
BETA PHOTO: Casaval Ridge is the ridgeline on the left
A party belaying the catwalk. Pretty decent exposure on the left towards Avalanche Gluch. This would be a bad place to slip.
BETA PHOTO: A party belaying the catwalk. Pretty decent exposu...
Summit of Mt. Shasta
BETA PHOTO: Summit of Mt. Shasta
The last part of the ridge. Follow this part of the ridgeline on the right to the base of Misery Hill. Be careful not to heard onto the Whitney Glacier on the other side of the crest.
BETA PHOTO: The last part of the ridge. Follow this part of th...
Casaval Ridge
BETA PHOTO: Casaval Ridge
Looking back on Casaval Ridge from the summit. The route takes you to about the center right of the ridgeline seen here. Whitney Glacier on the right.
BETA PHOTO: Looking back on Casaval Ridge from the summit. The...
Catwalk, most fun part of the day, crux was much lower and for us was all about route finding in the dark, long route, lots of fun
Catwalk, most fun part of the day, crux was much l...
Comments on Casaval Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By suuntout
Apr 15, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

did this route this weekend, camped at giddy giddy gulch route finding was easy, very fun

By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2010

Thinking about running up this route as a more fun alternative to avalanche gulch.

How hard is routefinding? Both gaining the ridge, and the ridgeline before misery hill?

How much rock were you climbing versus snow? When do you think conditions will be best?

By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
May 11, 2011

FA: 1963, Bob Rears and Jack Davidson.

By Don Morris
From: Denver, CO
Apr 2, 2013

Recommend high camp before summit to be at 11,800 feet. Also called the second window. A ski descent from here into Avalanche Gulch can be made.