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Routes in Mt. Shasta
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Avalanche Gulch Mod. Snow |
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Casaval Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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Green Butte Ridge Mod. Snow |
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Hotlum Glacier Route AI1-2 Steep Snow |
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Hotlum-Bolam Ridge AI1-2 |
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Hotlum-Wintun Ridge Mod. Snow |
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Red Banks Couloir WI3-4 PG13 |
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Sargents Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow PG13 |
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West Face Gully Mod. Snow |
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Whitney Icefall aka Shastice Park AI3-4 |
| Type: | Snow, Alpine, Grade III |
| FA: | FA: 1963, Bob Rears and Jack Davidson |
| Page Views: | 18,314 total · 104/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Kosh on Nov 19, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This is a great training route that can be done in a long day, though most will choose to spend a night on the ridge. Probably the best route from the Bunny Flat Trailhead.
There are multiple components to this route. First ascend the prominent spur of Casaval Ridge, toward Giddy Giddy Gulch, to the immediate climbers left of Avalanche Gulch. Eventually this will join the ridge proper and provide a striking view of Casaval’s towering gendarmes as a spine of rock.
From here, the traverse begins. Drop down about 15-20 feet to the North side of the ridge and traverse the ridgeline just below the spine of gendarmes. Easily a 40-45 degrees slope with firm snow (in Spring), this often a is a no-fall zone with a lot of exposure. If you have to dagger two axes, expect to take a very long time… it’s much quicker if you’re comfortable side hilling.
Continue upward along the ridge, weaving around the gendarmes as you see fit. Great views are had.
Eventually a prominent diagonal rock band will be encountered, breeched by a snow-filled chute. This is the Hourglass Chute. It is great spot to consider conditions and weather, as the bailout back to camp is easy and direct. Once above this point, bailing out becomes more a tedious venture thanks to the rock band.
Above the Hourglass Chute, the slope mellows a bit. When a band of red rock begins to emerge, the Catwalk is nearby. This is the route crux, a 30-40 ft long outcropping/in-cut that wraps sharply around the red rock band. Conditions through The Catwalk can be very fickle and differ from year-to-year, and the exposure is thought-provoking.
Once passed, continue up the ridge along the rock outcroppings of Trinity Chutes and wrap around to the plateau above Whitney Glacier. At this point Casaval Ridge ends and joins all other Southeast Routes. Aim east toward Misery Hill and head for the summit.
If camping on Casaval, descend (or glissade!) via West Face. If you doing it car-to-car, descent via Avalanche Gulch will probably be more direct to the car.
Location
Descent via West Face Gully or Avalanche Gulch is the easiest choice for parties doing this without setting up a base camp. Otherwise, descend back down the route (this is the safer choice during high avalanche danger as well).
Photos
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