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l. Sleepy Hollow
Routes Sorted
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10,000 Restless Virgins T 
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 
Almost Pure and Simple T 
Art's Route T 
Boron Destroyer T 
Casa Emilio T 
Casablanca T 
Casanova T 
Counterstrike T 
Crack of Despondency T 
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 
Dick's Prick T 
Emilietta T 
Fancy Free T 
Footloose T 
Four-Foot Face T 
Headless Horseman T 
Independent Hangover T 
Lone Ranger, The T 
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 
Pfui Teufel T 
Roger's Escape Hatch T 
Tennish Anyone? T 
Trigger Point T 
V.D. T 
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 

Casanova 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Steele, John Steele, 1985
Page Views: 501
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Nov 17, 2009

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Description 

Climb to the right side of an overhang that is approximately 40-45 feet up and directly right of an obvious white section of rock. Traverse right a bit, then pass a bulge. After the bulge, go straight up another 40 feet or so to a small ledge below a larger roof; you will be below and a bit right of a large, left-facing, left-leaning corner. Go to the roof, traverse left (crux) then make a belay.

Some clean and pleasant face climbing and then a brief, intense crux; this route is much better than it looks.

Rappel with two ropes, or traverse 40 feet left and downclimb to the ledge at the top of pitch 1 of Casa Emilio. The second option is easier than it may sound and only requires one rope.


Location 

Use the last yellow-blazed trail on the Carriage Road. When the trail meets the cliff, walk left about 25-30 feet to the start. You should be 10-15 right of a shallow, right-facing, right-leaning corner that is about 10 feet high.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack.


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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 23, 2012

Nice face climbing (a couple of 5.7ish spots) leads to a burly traverse. I think the traverse is harder if shorter. Well protected. We rapped off a tree to the far left, a 70M rope had us back on the ground.