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l. Sleepy Hollow
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Casablanca 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, 1973
Page Views: 3,065
Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on May 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Becky Diamond protecting the lip in the creaky fla...

Description 

P1: About 30' right of the huge right-facing corner, climb up past a left-facing flake to a small overhang with a fixed pin. Up and slightly left to a small right-facing corner, then diagonal up right to the overhang, heading for the obvious flake. Clear the overhang at the flake (long reach) then diagonal up left to a belay at a (questionably alive) tree with slings and rings. 5.9, 90'.

This pitch used to be called 5.8+ but is 5.9 in the latest Williams guide. I'd say it's easier than that if you're 5'9", and harder than that if you're 5'6".

P2: Head up slightly right to a ledge. Then up trending left past a short left-facing corner. 5.5, 100'.


Protection 

Standard rack


Location 

This route is located at the far end of the Trapps, just before the S-turn in the carriage road where one exits for Sleepy Hollow. There is a yellow-blazed tree to mark the faint trail, which initially heads up a short, steep embankment. Follow blazes and cairns from there to a very large block, passing it on the right. Head left at the base of the cliff. The first pitch can be rappelled with one 60m rope. From the top of the 2nd pitch, walk left and rappel Casa Emilio, or walk further and descend Roger's Escape Hatch.



Photos of Casablanca Slideshow Add Photo
Matching on the good edge, which also makes a disconcerting creaking sound when pulled on.
Matching on the good edge, which also makes a disc...
Becky Diamond beginning the diagonal up right to the flake.
Becky Diamond beginning the diagonal up right to t...
The piton under the roof looks a little sketchy, I backed it up with a yellow C4 camalot that fit well in the flake. .
BETA PHOTO: The piton under the roof looks a little sketchy, I...
About to pull the roof.
About to pull the roof.
Approaching the roof.
Approaching the roof.
Just off the ground, approaching the left-facing flake.
Just off the ground, approaching the left-facing f...
Pulling the roof
Pulling the roof
Clipping the piton under the roof on Casablanca.
BETA PHOTO: Clipping the piton under the roof on Casablanca.
Hanging on the big, creaky flake
Hanging on the big, creaky flake
Comments on Casablanca Add Comment
Show which comments
By GoBotRocker
From: Spfld, Ma
Jul 4, 2006

In the photo of the girl placing the #1 Camalot (what is it with # 1 Camalots), I chose to use a smaller cam and moved it to the right as far as I could, hoping it would be less likely to rip out due to the flex in the flake...

I'm 5'8" and I was able to reach the hold without performing any magic tricks.

Otherwise a great roof climb, especially when the feet cut loose.

While you're there, Casa Emilio at 5.4 has a nice top pitch; great for new leaders.

By Zach Allen
Nov 20, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route on a beautiful part of the cliff. I'm 5'6" and didn't find the difficulty to be height dependent.

By Bob Hayes
Apr 23, 2007

Great first pitch. Don't bother with the second pitch even though Williams gives it a thumbs up. It's got little to offer in terms of movement and the lichen is still pretty thick.

By Fat Paul
From: Central, NJ
Nov 9, 2009

Concur with Bob H. that 2nd pitch has little to offer. One of the worst pitches I have done at the Gunks. Plenty of lichen and pine needles. Loose block just above the nice ledge about a third of the way up.

By Jay Harrison
Jan 17, 2010

I can't believe that casketizer flake at the crux is still there. It gave me the shivers cranking on it 30 years ago.

By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 22, 2011

I liked the climb, but the pins and the flake are indeed sketchy. While standing on the flexing flake (protected from the back with a "bomber" number 3 C4), I also felt the best horizontal over the roof wiggling. Seems like there's a ton of choss under the roof as well. Then again, it's probably been that way for a long time. Climb on!

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Another one of those astounding Gunks crux flakes!

By Byron Igoe
Oct 13, 2013

The little pine tree with slings seems half dead. There's a tricam as backup, but the rappel from P1 still felt sketchy.

By akline
May 22, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

i can't believe the girl in the photo put a cam behind that flake and it is still there! the climbing is not hard, but the protection in the roofs is sketchy, those flakes definitely move and the pitons that are in place to protect them are bad, at best. i backed up the first pitch rappel tree with a tricam on 5/20/14 because that tree is certainly half alive.