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l. Sleepy Hollow
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Casa Emilio 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Bonnie Prudden, Norton Smithe, 1953
Page Views: 3,405
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Nearing the top.

Description 

One of the better 5.4s in the Gunks; a long approach and undistinguished first pitch keep the crowds away.

This climb is at the far end of the Trapps, almost at the S-turn in the carriage road, about a 25-min. walk from the Uberfall.

Look for a buttress just to the right of the broken area that marks Roger's Escape Hatch. Scramble up to the right of this buttress (no trail here!) and then up behind it. Ledges lead to the top of this buttress, the start of the route.

P1: Climb easily up somewhat vegetated slabs aiming up and right for a huge tree. 5.0, 50'.

P2: Climb straight up clean, aesthetic white rock to the top. 5.4, 100'.

An easy descent down Rogers Escape Hatch is available - walk left a few hundred feet to a cairn. Some downclimbing is involved. Or you can rappel from the tree (awkward).


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack.



Photos of Casa Emilio Slideshow Add Photo
From the top of the first easy pitch, looking down at the large buttress mentioned in the description.  The step-across start is just beyond the right edge of the photo.
From the top of the first easy pitch, looking down...
Beginning the second pitch.
Beginning the second pitch.
The route as seen from the S turn.  Note the "white highway" on the second pitch that's scrubbed clean.  The start of the 1ts pitch is left of the photo.  The roof of Casablanca is visible to the right and has a similar white area just above it.
BETA PHOTO: The route as seen from the S turn. Note the "whit...
Comments on Casa Emilio Add Comment
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By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c

Guidebook rates this climb as 5.2. Everyone raves about it and although P2 is fun on cool rock, P1 is a vegetated easy slab where the only skill required is threading your way through trees. Worth doing if you are down that way, but IMHO not worth the walk down just for this route. FWIW, most people disagree with my impression of being worth the walk.

By derek nabozny
From: Mohawk Valley, NY
May 24, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

Well worth the walk on a busy day. I felt that P2 was more like a 3+

By JSH
Administrator
Apr 14, 2011

Since I'm just coming back from a foot problem, and it's early season ... this really was worth the walk, or at least it fit the bill for the moment, and I'm glad we hit it. I'd do it again, if I were bringing someone new out.

P1 is indeed undistinguished, similar to Moon/Sundance. But it's over fast!

P2 is stellar for its grade (range) - great rock, great position, continuously interesting. It's a great option for a first lead. There's definitely a move or two on it, as well.

The rappel is hella awkward.

By kenr
Aug 14, 2011

P0 - Inside at Emilio’s: Enter down into the Comici wine cellar. Find your way up to the living room. Exit out the right skylight. Above left side emerging from skylight is the pine tree platform at the bottom of P1.

We’ve climbed this lower starting pitch twice now: Great chance to make some climbing moves inside a cave. I wouldn’t make the walk out to Casa Emilio without doing it.

Difficulty? I don’t see how the easiest way I found thru this P0 each time could be harder than Gunks 5.3 -- my best guess for a difficulty grade would be Gunks 5.2. Length seemed less than 30 meters. I protected the first section (up to the “living room” level) with a threaded sling and a #2 Camalot (slightly larger would have been easier to place). Then I even remembered to place a directional in the “living room” to protect Sharon coming to the top of the first section. For the second climbing section (up out the “skylight”), I found a couple of smaller cam placements available.

How to get down into the Comici wine cellar?
Take the normal yellow-blazed and cairn-marked trail (which starts like 70 meters before the S-curve) up into the near part of Sleepy Hollow, but stop when it reaches the face for Creaky Joints + Almost Pure and Simple (white-ish face with some obvious cracks in its right half, with a small flat area just below it). Now instead of continuing around the right side of the Creaky Joints pillar/buttress following the marked trail toward Casablanca, go up on its left side: Leave the marked trail and go left from the flat area, gently a short ways (20 meters?); then turn and walk up the hill (some grass + dirt). See the cave to the right, and walk down to its bottom. That’s the start of P0.

Emilio Comici was a famous early climber in the Dolomites in northeast Italy. The Comici route on the north face of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen) is the ultra-classic long "moderate" alpine route. Early Gunks climbers also did first ascents in the Dolomites, which are still popular classics: Fritz Wiessner the west ridge of the Sass d'Ortiga (in 1928); and Hans Kraus (with Gino Solda) the south-east face of the Pala Delle Masenade. Fritz + Hans together did the first ascent in the Gunks of "Emilio", just next to this "Casa".

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 19, 2013

Fun, easy mellow climb. As of October 2013 there are rings/slings on both trees. I thought P2 was trickier than the rating, but no harder than a 5.4 Glad we did it.

By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Mar 28, 2014
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c

I guess the Gunks ratings are being modernized. Never thought this was harder than the book grade (5.2, Swain book) but also love it as a great climb for its grade. Really a great first lead and a great climb to bring new climbers on. Haven't led it in years, so maybe armed with the knowledge it's now considered a 5.4 I'll be disappointed.

By Barrett Stetson
Apr 27, 2014
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

We had come down that end to avoid the crowds, did this climb and then did "A long walk for man, a short climb for mankind". Both were mostly easy climbs with one or two harder moves, and if I were grading them probably would've put them at the same grade. It's all subjective. If your short, a key hold just out of reach might make a climb feel harder, and if you're tall, being scrunched traversing under a roof might feel harder. P1: dirty, really easy but not much pro, just be careful not to slip of the pine needles. P2 was nice clean rock, good gear. Both pitches had a comfortable belay stance. Raps were in good condition, had doubles but did in two because of all of the trees and ledges.