Cary Granite
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
FA: | Tony Sartin, Terri Condon 2009 |
Page Views: | 1,499 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Tony Sartin on Mar 8, 2013 |
Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is basically an alternative, easier start to Twinkletoes. Rope up where Switchbacks Direct and Betty both share the same start, which is 15 right of Twinkletoes. Climb straight up 20 feet to the SD/Betty first bolt. Clip and continue above to a large horizontal undercling flake. Undercling left (Betty continues up and right at this point) following SD up and left to where it meets the original Switchbacks at the base of an obvious, small right facing dihedral where you can get some gear. At the top of this corner, the Switchbacks moves up and right to a belay shared with Bam Bam at the base of a small left facing arch/flake. Cary Granite follows Twinkletoes up and left to a perfect, easy to spot little arch that takes great gear. Continue up and slightly right passing a couple of underclings with good gear until you reach a bolt. The bolt line to your left is The Great Gazoo. A 5.10 section passes the bolt and veers up and right to a good ledge. Easier, run-out climbing straight up passes another ledge and then leads to an overhang protected by the final bolt. Get established above the roof (crux) and continue up to a two bolt, ring anchor. This is also the anchor for The Great Gazoo.
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