From: Stony Brook, NY
Apr 9, 2007
Both Swain's and Brock's topos for this route are awful. it is not a long continuous corner. There is much scwacking and scrambling between pitches, and the routefinding (esp pitch 4) is challenging. Definitely not 5 stars and I'm pretty sure Roxanna hasn't climbed it. Glad I didn't buy her book!
The way I went on the 4th pitch was a thin corner with some airy barndoor moves and 1 bolt 1/2 way up. I didn't see any 4th class exit, just a 8" overhanging offwidth...so we bailed w/one rope and it made it. Don't trust any anchor bolts on this climb. An AMGA guide broke both ankles on this route.
|By Jason D. Martin|
Apr 10, 2007
The guide broke one ankle when he fell leading. The combination of bad rock and gear placements in bad rock didn't help his predicament. It sounds like his fall was due to pulling off a hold at a sketchy spot.
The guide was slated to take his $1500 rock guide's exam the following day. I don't know if he got a refund or a credit. But I do know that he wasn't a happy camper...
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 19, 2007
The only route I bailed off of in Red Rock and will never return to complete. Its a total thrash to get to the main event, which ends up being way spookier than you think it would be. I can't imagine leading the upper part of this route-- overhanging offwidths? In what world is that 5.10?
That said, Chocolate Flakes off right looks pretty sweet....too bad the approach pitches make it a less than appealing climb.
|By Rob DeZonia|
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I liked this route. The crux for me was climbing a run out chimney to a roof that had to be pulled. No harder than 5.10. The old guide book did give a horrible description. If I remember, there was a lot more wide stuff than I had expected. Old school exciting and satisfying. I hear Chocolate Flakes is a better option if you're in this gully.
Nov 2, 2011
This thing sounds MEAN! Anyone got beta on the anchors/bolts as they exist now on the route, in case I get to get up there and do some replacement?
Jan 21, 2014
I notice that there is literally no description for this route whatsoever. Helpful.