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 ADVANCED
Secture Demi Lune
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Carte Blanche 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
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Submitted By: kiff on Nov 23, 2011

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Description 

Starts under the low bulge located left of the big bush that separates the Demi Lune sector from the Un pont sur l'infini sector. Gymnastic climbing leads to massive holds where a rest can be had before the crux. Heel-toe cam your way through the V6ish crux and punch it through a pumpy sequence utilizing side pulls, underclings and pockets, with lots of twisting and rolling. Regain some composure on the flat jug on the arete, then cowboy up for the red point crux before the anchors that has broken many hearts. One of the most sought after 8a's at Ceuse.

Location 

Second route from the extreme right of Demi Lune.

Protection 

Bolts


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