|Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>|
The guide book description (C)2013 is pretty much dead on without the details. The start is broken and loose and also a little spooky with a difficult crux getting into the finger crack. After the crux the crack quickly opens up to perfect hands and big hands to the anchor.
This route is on the far left end of Reservoir Wall, about 20 minutes past Excuse Station. There is no trail and the bush whacking sucks but hopefully that will improve with some more traffic. The crack is in lighter colored sandstone vs the typical wingate and is very solid. Some of the rock around the start is a little chossy but easy to avoid.
Doubles of .3 to #1, lots of #2's and #3's to the anchor. A couple #3 Friends work well to supplement the Camalots. As of 9/2013 the anchor is the original from the first ascent with one bolt and aluminum hanger and one stopper. Interestingly when I got to the anchor there was no webbing or carabiners on either the bolt or the stopper, leading me to believe that Steve must have continued to the top. An updated anchor would be nice but I doubt this route will see much traffic (and I didn't have my bolt kit) so I left some slings and carabiners.
Sep 5, 2013
steve, did you happen to also do the route between good excuse and CH? long big hands flake sort of thing?
thanks for adding this one, we were going to do it last spring but ran out of daylight.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Sep 6, 2013
Walked by a couple other routes on the way to this one but didn't get on them. Will have to check them out next time.
Sep 6, 2013
yeah, it think it was called S&P or something like that. really good route. pretty quiet over in that neck of the woods, once you get past excuse station...