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Jason Haas leads Carrot Flake (10a) on Ridge 4 of ...
Start as for Dialing For Dollars
, but continue up and left (5.6? at first), traversing more than rising under the belly of a huge flake for 40' or so before reaching a crux right after good gear. Turn up and go more vertical by a clean section of rock at the feet (5.9+) and then go left again until the flake disappears. When the flake runs out, go vertical (5.10a) to an anchor on a shelf to finish on good holds. Clip the anchor and check it out to be sure it is solid. Back it up with a 2" cam to the left until you are ready to rap.
When we arrived at this climb, the anchor was a total loss- the sheath of the cord on the hex turned to fiber and powder when rubbed between my fingers, and the old sling snapped under light pressure when we pulled on it. I proceeded to "shred" the sling with not more than 30 lbs force. This anchor must not have been used for at least a decade. We replaced the slings and added a nut, but did not have any 5mm cord to re-sling the hex, which is now on a "sheathless" cord.
A standard rack with an extra 2" cam to back up the belay. The anchor up top needs some more work. We refurbished the slings, added a quicklink, and added a nut. If someone were to re-tread the fixed hex (requires 5mm cord in a #2 hex) it would be far better.
Jason Haas approaches the hidden belay at the Top ...