A fun little slab that is the perfect choice for a beginning leader. Simply climb the route to the anchor, passing two old bolts.
This is the first route you come to when hiking into the cliff. Look for two old (but solid) bolts on a low angled slab at the far right end of the cliff. The anchor is not visible from the base, but is located to the right of a bush growing on the slab.
Bolted anchor with webbing at the top.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 11, 2010
Two old bolts with home made flat bar stock hangers lead to a two bolt anchor. From here you can make a longish run-out up and right to another bolt, then trend up and left to a sling and quick link anchor at a tree. Many of the old hangers are hard to clip, and one required tying it off with webbing as there was no room to get the nose of a carabiner in it. I would not call the second "pitch" a wise choice for a beginning leader. Info from Oct. 10, 2010.
|By joshua corbett|
From: Wolfeboro NH
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Also to know that there is no webing on the two bolt anchors at the top of the first pitch
Jul 2, 2011
someone added a 3/8" bolt next to the old 1/4" 3rd bolt to split it into two pitches i guess. from there i agree with EDGE, a bit runout and dirty for a beginner. Someone should replace those old manky 1/4" bolts, i doubt they would hold a fall! fun route tho! It can be done in one nice long pitch as well.
|By Dan Felix|
Aug 26, 2012
Climbed/scrambled this route today with my kids. I left a 3/8" screw link on each anchor at the top. Figured the screw links would last longer than webbing...
|By Robert Hall|
Jul 12, 2014
I did this back in 2007 and my old Webster guidebook has a comment I added: "Headwall is 5.5-5.6 R/X", so I'm not sure if the climb is simply supposed to END after the 1st pitch. "Old School" 5.3 can easily be 5.5 these days, but considering the bolts placed on even the easy slab of P1, I'd say the steeper top is not part of the original route.