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Carpenter & Das 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: July 2009
Season: May - Oct.
Page Views: 788
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Nov 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: P2 & P3 of Carpenter & Das

Description 

While P1 is infrequently climbed (it is often wet), P2 includes the best climbing on the Isobuttress. Most climbers traverse onto P2 after ascending routes such as Recuperation Bvd or Full Recovery.

P1 5.7 45': (V1)Climb to the ledge, walk left to its end and angle up to a crack leading up and right. Follow it (often climbing between two wet spots) to its end at a horizontal crack, and continue up to a large, sloping ledge below an overhanging flake.

P2: 5.8 85': (V2, V3) At the left end of the overhang, climb up the crack (strenuous 5.8) or the flake to its right, or both, then continue up the crack to its end at a horizontal and step left to a small alcove/ledge. Climb the corner (or zigzag up a right-rising ramp) to a ramp leading up left to a vertical crack below a triangular overhang. Take this crack and climb straight through the overhang (crux)(V4), up the arÍte to a large ledge.

P3: Climb the 10' face (5.6) to the top. Alternatively: two rappels, starting from the 2-bolt anchor at the top of P2.

V1: If the first pitch is too wet, a good alternative is the first pitch of Recuperation Bvd. Alternatively, one can climb the slab left of the drainage, crossing back along another slab to reach the first belay ledge on relatively easy 5.4ish friction.
V2 5.3: To avoid the strenuous crack start of P2, walk right, climb up the easy block and walk back left to rejoin the crack.
V3 5.7+: One can also walk farther left, climb a short way up a manky notch, and hand-traverse right to join the regular route.
V4 5.5: One can avoid the overhang by traversing right and around it, then back onto the arÍte.

Though the bottom pitch squeezes between wet spots - and in damp weather may be completely soaked - the moves along it are wonderful fun.
P2 is not to be missed.


Location 

Near the center of the Isobuttress, about 15' right of a wet gully, where a 2' high rock lies against the cliff, below a ledge 8' up.


Protection 

Modern trad rack. There is a 2-bolt anchor at the top of P2.



Photos of Carpenter & Das Slideshow Add Photo
Panoramic views from the top of pitch 2, Carpenter and Das 5.7+ Crane Mt, ADKs, New York.
Panoramic views from the top of pitch 2, Carpenter...
Jamie McNeill pulls the crux overhang on <em>Carpenter & Das</em>.
Jamie McNeill pulls the crux overhang on Carpe...
Starting out on p2 of <em>Carpenter & Das</em>.
Starting out on p2 of Carpenter & Das.
Lukasz Czyz leading p1 of <em>Carpenter & Das</em>.
Lukasz Czyz leading p1 of Carpenter & Das...
Jeff Peck topping out on the upper pitch of <em>Carpenter & Das</em>. Note that, like most people nowadays, we started on <em>Recuperation Bvd</em> and moved left after the first pitch. Nowadays, this is the most popular means of climbing the Isobuttress.
Jeff Peck topping out on the upper pitch of Ca...
Comments on Carpenter & Das Add Comment
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By Jay Harrison
Nov 23, 2009

Please note I've upgraded the rating, after listening to other ascenders' comments and leading it again myself. I think the overhang goes at 5.8; though this should deter no one, as the variation workaround is ~5.4.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 12, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

P1 - first half is kinda wet, but it serves its purpose to get you to the second half of this pitch where the climbing is highly technical and VERY fun.

P2 - some great climbing and unexpected features. The roof at the top is stiff 5.7+ (Jay said 5.9???). There's a way around it right. I wasn't leading so maybe it feels more like a 5.9 on the sharp end. This pitch can also be linked up from Recuperation Blvd, also a 5.7

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Jan 7, 2011

the roof section is definentally 5.8 based on someone with no beta.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Led both pitches and overhang today. Overhang is easier for people with a long reach (like me, 6' 3").

This is a really great multipitch climb. Note that a 70m does not reach the ground from the top rap rings, so use/bring double ropes or expect two raps.

Pitch 1 has questionable gear behind a fragile flake.

By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 20, 2011

Can this be done in 1 pitch with long slings?

By Tparis
From: Pottersville,New York
Nov 22, 2011

Nick, You could do it all in a single pitch in theory. We were on it today and the bottom pitch looked as dry as it has all season (that will change tonight). But why do that when you can do the first pitch of Recuperation blvd (super fun) instead and then traverse over to do the second pitch of C&D.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Sep 26, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There is also a new linkup variation using pitch 1 of "Full Recovery", which starts and climbs just right of E-stim, traverses along the ledge to the rap tree above Recuperation Blvd, then moves left from there and climbs Pitch 2 of Carp&Das. This is my new favorite way to climb the Isobuttress.