Carpenter & Das  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  July 2009 Season:  May - Oct. Submitted By:  Jay Harrison on Nov 23, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: P2 & P3 of Carpenter & Das

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Description 

While P1 is infrequently climbed (it is often wet), P2 includes the best climbing on the Isobuttress. Most climbers traverse onto P2 after ascending routes such as Recuperation Bvd or Full Recovery.

P1 5.7 45': (V1)Climb to the ledge, walk left to its end and angle up to a crack leading up and right. Follow it (often climbing between two wet spots) to its end at a horizontal crack, and continue up to a large, sloping ledge below an overhanging flake.

P2: 5.8 85': (V2, V3) At the left end of the overhang, climb up the crack (strenuous 5.8) or the flake to its right, or both, then continue up the crack to its end at a horizontal and step left to a small alcove/ledge. Climb the corner (or zigzag up a right-rising ramp) to a ramp leading up left to a vertical crack below a triangular overhang. Take this crack and climb straight through the overhang (crux)(V4), up the arête to a large ledge.

P3: Climb the 10' face (5.6) to the top. Alternatively: two rappels, starting from the 2-bolt anchor at the top of P2.

V1: If the first pitch is too wet, a good alternative is the first pitch of Recuperation Bvd. Alternatively, one can climb the slab left of the drainage, crossing back along another slab to reach the first belay ledge on relatively easy 5.4ish friction.
V2 5.3: To avoid the strenuous crack start of P2, walk right, climb up the easy block and walk back left to rejoin the crack.
V3 5.7+: One can also walk farther left, climb a short way up a manky notch, and hand-traverse right to join the regular route.
V4 5.5: One can avoid the overhang by traversing right and around it, then back onto the arête.

Though the bottom pitch squeezes between wet spots - and in damp weather may be completely soaked - the moves along it are wonderful fun.
P2 is not to be missed.

Location 

Near the center of the Isobuttress, about 15' right of a wet gully, where a 2' high rock lies against the cliff, below a ledge 8' up.

Protection 

Modern trad rack. There is a 2-bolt anchor at the top of P2.

Photos of Carpenter & Das Slideshow

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Jamie McNeill pulls the crux overhang on Carpe...	Lukasz Czyz leading p1 of Carpenter & Das...	Starting out on p2 of Carpenter & Das.
Panoramic views from the top of pitch 2, Carpenter...	Jeff Peck topping out on the upper pitch of Ca...