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Climb easyish chossy-feeling rock past 2 bolts. Place a long draw or full-length runner on the 3rd bolt to reduce rope drag. Engaging 5.11 moves lead up an arete to an in-your-face bouldery crux at the last 4 bolts. Cop rests where you can, because the ending packs a punch.
The controversial 4-bolt extension, which increased the rating from soft 5.11d to stiff 5.12b, was added in 2001.
Starts near a small tree to the left of Wicked Chimney
and, after face moves past 2 bolts, climbs the arete.
Bolts to cold-shut anchors.