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Caressing Lovely Lumps
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Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Boulder, Alpine |
FA: | Jordan Hill, John Gallagher & Mike Gallagher |
Page Views: | 1,490 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | COEveryman on Jun 6, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Most of these boulders are within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the US.
Details
Most boulders are located within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the USFS. Climbers should be on their best behavior, practice Leave No Trace. Please abide by these requirements: it can take vegetation decades to recover from damage. Place crash pads judiciously, & keep brushing to a minimum. Before adding new lines, considered the damage that may be caused by additional foot traffic, pads, etc.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Description
Start with a left hand sidepull on the obvious, left-facing flake with feet on the ledge near the ground. Crank up to underneath the roof and get your feet established on the generous slab. Follow the leftward-trending crack under the roof using the well-spaced crimps and locks until you crack pinches off. From here you enter the tricky crux by establishing your foot on the small edge on the now-much-steeper-slab and get a right hand in the last opening in the crack and move the left hand to the first of the lovely lumps (rounded ridges) near the lip with the furthest right (and farthest back over the lip) lump having the best traction. Balancy movement and a good foot way out left once you are established on the lumps will get you to the top.
Location
Follow the trail past "Maker's Mark" and "Ben's Arete" down and around the 90 degree, left turn around the big boulder northwest of those problems. The north face of this boulder has an obvious roof with a crack underneath it. The problem starts off the trail with hands on the obvious, left-facing flake.
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