Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Membrane
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
26 S 
Andy's Route S 
Bad Faith S 
Between The Lines S 
Butterfingers S 
Caress of Steel S 
Drop Zone S 
Drunken Midget S 
Flight Fright S 
Kitchen Sink S 
License To Thrill S 
Little Big Wall S 
Mandela S 
On There S 
Reverse Traverse S 
Rincon S 
Riptide S 
Route 66 S 
Steel Monkey S 
Unknown S 

Caress of Steel 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Unice, Bill Boyle
Page Views: 4,162
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (114)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Climber on route. Almost to the top
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

About 20 feet left of License To Thrill are a pair of near classic 5.10 warm-ups, Caress is the left of the two, but both are worth doing. Not overly bolted, the pump factor can make both of these routes seem a number grade harder. Just stay on your feet and make the big reaches.


Protection 

Seven or eight draws and a rope.



Photos of Caress of Steel Slideshow Add Photo
Membrane Wall <br />5. <a href='/v/caress-of-steel/105739949'>Caress of Steel</a> 5.10a  <br />6. <a href='/v/steel-monkey/106017395'>Steel Monkey</a> 5.10d  <br />7. <a href='/v/route-66/105739952'>Route 66</a> 5.12a
BETA PHOTO: Membrane Wall
5. Caress of Steel 5.10a
6. [[1060173...
Late afternoon at the Membrane
Late afternoon at the Membrane
Side Photo of route.  Good shot of the belay area also. Climber is near the top of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Side Photo of route. Good shot of the belay area ...
Comments on Caress of Steel Add Comment
Show which comments
By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 15, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pumpy and polished definitely made this feel harder than .10a. Very fun with lots of big jugs, not to be missed.

By Alec
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The most polished climb I've been on in AF -- and that's saying a lot -- otherwise I'd give it four stars. Fun, steep jug haul all the way to the anchors.

By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Jul 26, 2009

I didn't feel this climb was too polished. The grade seemed very fair. Fun and very juggy! Some large reaches off some bomber holds. Very fun. It's a miniture license to thrill. A must do for a 5.10 climber!

By Christian Weaver
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Vertical Country Details of Caress of Steel

By Andrew Seegmiller
From: Orem UT
Jan 2, 2010

I also felt like this was a very polished climb up until about the fourth bolt, after that it all felt pretty good to me. but the first part of the jug line is miserably polished which makes it feel alot harder then a 10a. I'd give the first part something like a 10d

Take a brush and clean holds when your on this climb and it may get better

By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Sep 6, 2010

This route obviously sees tons of traffic. I give it two stars because the holds are big and fun, but no more. As fun as the moves were, I couldn't enjoy the route that much because the footholds are polished black with rubber and the hands are completely coated in congealed chalk. Even for AF this route is super polished.

By Buffalo James
From: American Fork, UT
Aug 9, 2011

great 5.10a, quite polished, and make sure to have your footing from the last bolt to chains, i've had a couple buddies slip off that flake at the top and take a good fall. Great climb.