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Careno Corners
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 34 votes
Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 4,653 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | ScottH on Aug 19, 2007 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
This is an enjoyable climb to the upper tier on Careno Crag. The only drawbacks are a wandering line near the beginning, forcing short pitches, and a short section of 3rd class terrain. It is possible to link this route to the Bale/Kramar, Foo Killer, and any of the routes above the upper tier.
P1. Begin right of the Bale/Kramar, climbing a steep crack up, then right. Gain a sloping rail and traverse left to a belay under the large roof (shared with BK). 5.9
P2. From the belay, head left around the roof then follow an easy gully up and right on 3rd class terrain to a large ledge and the base of a wide corner. The hardest moves on the pitch are avoiding the very large and loose blocks near the belay.
P3. Grunt and sweat up an imposing wide corner for ~30' where it narrows to hands and fists. Cracks deep in the corner and on the adjacent wall offer additional holds and gear. 5.9
P4. A steep crack pulls over a small lip, then breaks left. Alternatively, climb the wide crack to the same point. Follow broken terrain up and left to the upper ledge. (5.8-5.9). A nice variation goes up a finger crack/face to the belay on top of Foo Killer instead of continuing left on easier ground. From here, connect with the regular route to gain the large ledge. 5.9
P1. Begin right of the Bale/Kramar, climbing a steep crack up, then right. Gain a sloping rail and traverse left to a belay under the large roof (shared with BK). 5.9
P2. From the belay, head left around the roof then follow an easy gully up and right on 3rd class terrain to a large ledge and the base of a wide corner. The hardest moves on the pitch are avoiding the very large and loose blocks near the belay.
P3. Grunt and sweat up an imposing wide corner for ~30' where it narrows to hands and fists. Cracks deep in the corner and on the adjacent wall offer additional holds and gear. 5.9
P4. A steep crack pulls over a small lip, then breaks left. Alternatively, climb the wide crack to the same point. Follow broken terrain up and left to the upper ledge. (5.8-5.9). A nice variation goes up a finger crack/face to the belay on top of Foo Killer instead of continuing left on easier ground. From here, connect with the regular route to gain the large ledge. 5.9
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