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Card Shark 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: Maurice Liddy on Sep 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Not very pleasant, hard balancey route with an obvious crux getting to the second bolt.
beta in my comment if you're looking for it.

Location 

This is the route on the arete just beside Easy Money.

Protection 

4 or 5 bolts


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By Maurice Liddy
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 20, 2007

Some beta:

Start with left hand up high, throw to huge pocket up and right with your right hand. Then move your left hand up to a small obvious crimp just to the left of your right hand.
Now (the only way i could do this) paste your right foot out right anywhere you can and hike your left foot way up into the pocket that your left hand started on.Lean in and slowly reach up for the sharp featured crimp way up and left with your left hand. Stand up, make the sketchy clip and then its 5.10 to the anchors.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

While this route certainly has limited appeal I enjoyed the technical start.

The climber and belayer should use caution near the second bolt. A crash here results in a collision of the two.