Carbs and Caffeine
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Another super-classic route in the Yellow Wall area. This begins just right of The Yellow Wall itself and shares a belay with Airy Aria.
P1 is a decent, well-protected solid 5.9 as its own pitch.
P1: Begin on the arete just right of the OW corner of Airy Aria, and climb a left-diagonaling finger crack to a nice belay ledge out left. Belay here at two bolts. 5.9, 60'.
P2: Climb up and right off of the belay through a wild system of roofs. There are frequent places to rest -- including a no-hands knee bar immediately below the crux. Reach up and clip a bolt, then pull a difficult move (11a -- but I thought it was harder) to a tenuous stance on tiny holds. There's a second bolt here but it's a really difficult clip and the bolt is total mank anyway -- you may consider skipping it. A few more desperate moves up and right will get you to a thank-God stance and #2 Camalot placement in a horizontal. Climb up more roofs (successively pumpier), to a final ass-kicking, cramped, hand traverse right to a belay stance. This feels almost as hard as the crux move, but shorter folks may be able to cruise it.
Standard Rack, two bolts, some pins, and a crucial #2 Camalot above the first crux.
It's 35m from the fixed anchor atop Pitch 2 to the ground. With care, it's possible to lower with a 70m rope; otherwise, walk back to the High Exposure rappel line.
Tierd? No! After 15 pitches today at the gunks, I ...
Tony Bubb sets off on lead into the long and pumpy...
Chillin' at the crux!?!
C&C Pitch 1. Bring nuts!
|Comments on Carbs and Caffeine
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 21, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13
The thing I recall the most was accidentally kicking out my gear down and left below me while I was staring at that crappy bolt. It should be replaced. Other than that, great route!
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 22, 2006
The thing I remember most is falling off the final crux roof following Rich Gottlieb and shredding his new rope.
The first crux (on P2) was done on the FFA by traversing left then up and back right. Easier, but scary.
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 30, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
After I eeked through the crux on pitch two, I was convinced that it was necessary to belay below the final roof (I may have read this in the guidebook or maybe I just made it up, I don't know). I would not recommend belaying here as the rock isn't that solid and the stance is less-than-comfortable. It would have been better to continue to the top of the cliff, as Josh's description suggests. The final roof, though intimidating, wasn't as hard as the lower crux. It was more awkward than hard.
|By Tim Schafstall|
From: Newark, DE
Apr 24, 2008
P1 is a bit soft for 5.9 (new Williams' guide downrates to 5.8) and is a better option to start Airy Aria - a much nicer pitch than that sometimes wet, slick, offwidth on P1 of Airy Aria.
|By Chris Beh|
Jul 7, 2010
I led the whole thing in one pitch, from the ground, with double ropes in 1986. I had enough slings to keep the rope drag manageable even on the final roof. Which kicked my ass like other super, scruncy Gunks classics (Swing Time, Pork Roaster, Arachnias). I whippped off the last overhang 2 or 3 times, with rope stretch and an expert, Mileski style Joey split finger, dynamic belay by Stokey Baker, the ride must have been 40 feet. But I could get back on above the lower crux and I'd just yo yo up for another go.
From: SL UT
Sep 29, 2010
70m rope just barely lets you lower off.
|By Jeffrey Gagliano|
From: Pennsburg, PA
Apr 9, 2012
Did this back in '99 or '00 one cold October day. My feet cut out on the traverse under the final roof. Campused for a move or two and did a wild dyno to a jug. Yikes! I haven't dared a repeat, though I do fantasize of it.
Sep 7, 2012
Just did this route yesterday. A heads up to anyone trying the route, the bolts are extremely suspect. The first bolt is relatively new, however it's bent and not set it the hole well. I would't trust it to hold a big fall. The second bolt is a complete joke, don't bother even clipping it. It would't hold my cat on aid. The route in my opinion currently R.
Sep 19, 2013
It's been a little over a year - anyone know if the bolt status is the same? Pulled out? Replaced? Sounds like there is no reasonable gear options for a while if the previous poster indicates it as R climbing...