|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 45'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Dan Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001|
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|Comments on Caramel Corner||Add Comment|
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Oct 9, 2004
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
This is a great climb. I haven't climbed in a number of years and about 40 pounds ago; however, I was able to set up with my three boys on this climb and they enjoyed it. The initial comment on protection for this climb is 100% correct. There is 1 predrilled anchor, because I am a stickler I used the tree about 40 feet beyond the anchor (directly away from Grocey Store Wall) and the large rock to the left (from the top) had a nice enough crack to slide webbing in around it and provide 3 points of pro. 2 natural, 1 drilled in a perfect T pattern. This worked very well, but I ended up using every last piece of webbing I have to set up for this climb. In short, my suggestion is have an 80' piece of webbing for the tree, a 50' piece of webbing for the rock, and a 15' piece for the drilled anchor and you will be set. One last thing I noticed some people tying their webbing directly into the anchors. Please, people, always either use a locking biner or double opposed biners to lock in with and tie your webing to that. It is easier on the pocketbook (in terms of shredded webbing replacement) and oh so much safer.
Sorry for rambling... now go have fun. Eyeon.
By Alan C
Aug 8, 2006
This is good route for very young kids. (1) It's very close to where the trail meets the wall, so you don't have to go very far. (2) there's sufficient same open space for kids to wait around in and be out of the way. (3) You can find shade from the sun to belay and rest the kids. (4) The ramp on the East/Right of the corner to the first ledge is challenging enough for a very young climber. My 3 year old found it scary enough.
I climb this route on the West (left) of the corner. There are two bolts for protection at the top and used a tree West of the bolts for third anchor point.
Oct 17, 2012
|Used the following pro: BD #2 and #4. Having a #4 is super nice.|
By Kayla Allen
From: Colorado Springs
1 day ago
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|I rated this 5.7 because I believe that it's sandbagged, but also the holds are pretty hard to reach - and slopers - at the crux (if you're shorter), and so the alternative is doing the chimney of Caramel Corner Layback, which I would not call a 5.5. If doing the chimney, some smaller passive pro would be good to have. Overall, a lot of fun, but don't expect a 5.5 (especially if you're under 5'5"!).|