Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Bill Schmausser & Wife, 2000
Page Views: 2,061 total · 8/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is located on the wall to the right of Guide's Route and left around the corner from the start of Jaws. There are five bolted routes on this wall that range from 5.8 to 5.10. This is the route on the far right side.

Excellent friction climb up a solid granite face. There is a sizeable runout between the 1st and 2nd bolts (with significant ground fall potential) that can be protected with a #2 camalot in a horizontal seam midway between the two. The crux is this face moves just above the 3rd bolt. Above the 4th bolt, the climbing eases significantly to the anchors. Either rap with one rope (50m will work), or traverse left and set a top rope on just about any of the other routes. Good route while waiting to get on Guide's Route.

Protection Suggest change

Five quickdraws plus anchor. A #2 Camalot protects the runout between bolts 1 and 2.

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