Another hidden gem at Double Upper. You can do this as one long pitch but I think it's better as two.
Pitch 1 runs up and slightly right on easy slabs, passing a few bolts (with optional gear in between) then past a short tricky steeper spot to get to a two-bolt belay/rap anchor.
Pitch 2 moves up steeper ground past two bolts to an overlap, then up the left-facing bottomless corner. Then breaking right up easy ground to the spacious, pleasant ledge. The view from here is superb. Two raps with a single 60m rope will get you back down, via the first pitch anchor.
About 30 feet right of Sling the Horn, on the mid-right side of the main face. Look carefully for two bolts.
some bolts, a few small-medium cams and nuts for the second pitch, a few single-length runners.
|Comments on Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.)
|By Derek Doucet|
Sep 11, 2012
The second pitch requires very good loose rock judgment. Be extremely selective about where to place gear, as much of this pitch is hollow and loose. A 5.7 pitch for those comfortable leading 5.9.