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Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) T 
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Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 452
Submitted By: mmainer on Sep 10, 2012

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Description 

Another hidden gem at Double Upper. You can do this as one long pitch but I think it's better as two.

Pitch 1 runs up and slightly right on easy slabs, passing a few bolts (with optional gear in between) then past a short tricky steeper spot to get to a two-bolt belay/rap anchor.

Pitch 2 moves up steeper ground past two bolts to an overlap, then up the left-facing bottomless corner. Then breaking right up easy ground to the spacious, pleasant ledge. The view from here is superb. Two raps with a single 60m rope will get you back down, via the first pitch anchor.

Location 

About 30 feet right of Sling the Horn, on the mid-right side of the main face. Look carefully for two bolts.

Protection 

some bolts, a few small-medium cams and nuts for the second pitch, a few single-length runners.


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By Derek Doucet
Sep 11, 2012

The second pitch requires very good loose rock judgment. Be extremely selective about where to place gear, as much of this pitch is hollow and loose. A 5.7 pitch for those comfortable leading 5.9.