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Unsorted Routes:

Captain Nemo 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Doug Cairns, 1976
Page Views: 6,492
Submitted By: Stephen Marsh on Oct 15, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (97)
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hangin out on pitch 2


The first pitch is one of the best moderates in the area and for 5.10 climbers the second pitch should not be missed. This was one of my first climbs while learning trad and is a great introduction to the Voo. The easiest approach is to walk the entire length of the east side of Nautilus, past Friday the 13th. Walk around the north end and then head back in the direction of the parking lot. Just past MaxiLash is a large roof with a dihedral leading to it.

P1 (5.8, 70') - Climb the shelves below a left-facing dihedral, which goes to a right-facing dihedral as you turn the corner. The first pitch is a popular hand crack which starts off small and gets bigger as you go. End underneath the roof at the chain anchor.

P2 (10d, 80') - The start of this traverse lures you in, but the reason this is 10d lies just around the corner. The wall drops away, and the crack turns to flaring jams and slopers. Trying to place gear on this section is awkward to say the least (might wanna take off that helmet!). Pull over the bulge at the lip and belay at the anchors.


#0.5 - 3.5 Camalots, TCUs can be helpful.

Photos of Captain Nemo Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing up the fun first pitch.
Climbing up the fun first pitch.
Tom, enjoying the crack after the roof.
Tom, enjoying the crack after the roof.
Matt enjoys a good jam after as the climb starts to ease up
Matt enjoys a good jam after as the climb starts t...
Rapping down from Captain Nemo with Matt waiting under the roof
Rapping down from Captain Nemo with Matt waiting u...
Ryan exiting the roof crack.
Ryan exiting the roof crack.
Jess liebacking Pitch 1
Jess liebacking Pitch 1
1st pitch.
1st pitch.
Comments on Captain Nemo Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stephen Marsh
From: Thornton, CO
Oct 18, 2005

Just some clarification, pitch 2 is not 80' long, it's 80' from the anchors to the ground.

By nolteboy
Oct 24, 2005

Vedauwoo Mega Classic, especially pitch one. I actually recommend keeping the helmet ON for p.2, as (depending on one's height) using opposing forces 'tween the feet and the roof (thru yer head!) can be a real help in moving the hands and placing pro...

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 25, 2007

You should consider ditching the helmet on P2. It is very difficult to see your gear placements, since they are in the back of the flare.

By David Bayendor
From: Denver, CO
Jun 29, 2009

I did the 1st pitch of this route with Craig Luebben, inventor of the Big Bro and Vedauwoo climbing hardman. Spent three days in a Vedauwoo clinic with Craig. This is a great pitch to work hand and fist jams on. I recommend taping, the insides of these cracks are pretty rough.

At this point the second pitch is a beyond me, but definitely worth coming back for.

By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The second pitch is BURLY.

By Sam Stephens
Aug 22, 2011

Did pitch one, nothing but awesome.

By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The nut on the right bolt was loose when I climbed this on Labor Day, 2012. I finger tightened it, but a wrench would do a better job.

The hangers are older style, smaller SMC hangers. Hard to clip more than one carabiner.