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 ADVANCED
Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anarchist , The S 
Blinded By The Puss T,S 
Bloody Beetroots, The S 
Captain Moonlite T,S 
Clark Bar Crack T 
Cold Vein , The S 
Dyno Problem TR 
Exposed TR 
Fear The Wolf T 
Food Pyramid T,TR 
Forearm Frenzy T 
Half crack TR 
Hollow Arete, The TR 
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 
Its Own Spirit T,S 
Jungle Face T,TR 
Kilometer Variation 
Kyles Corner T,TR 
Magic Central S 
Marmalade T,TR 
Modern Collective T,S 
Mudskipper, The T,TR 
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt TR 
P&H T 
Pisces T,TR 
Psycho Jap S 
Shape Shifter S 
Silver Wings S 
Sirius T,TR 
Spider T,TR 
Summer 
Super Slab T,TR 
Super Vivid 
TRad Crack T,TR 
Wallow In The Hollow  T 
We Don't Toprope T 
Zeitgeist T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Captain Moonlite 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Morgan Patterson, SA: Nate Labieniec
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,216
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Nov 16, 2011

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Captain Mo, cleaning after the 1st Ascent.

Description 

Starting 10ft right of Kyle's Corner, climb sloping arete up past diagonal crack (gear) on good holds past a bolt to a mantle move to gain the main ledge 15ft up (cam for directional is helpful down low). Starting at a good pocket up and left continue up the slightly overhanging face using good holds and small crimpers to the gain the lip and anchor. Good dynamic climbing on great holds. Many thanks to Ryan and Shylo for making this route happen!

Named after: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Captain_Moonlite


Location 

Left end of the Psycho Jap Wall. Start on sloping diagonal ramp 10ft right of Kyle's Corner.


Protection 

2 yellow Metolious cams & 3 Bolts to Anchor.



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By Echoinfi
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

The anchor just got updated. This is a great route. It basically breaks down into three sections between good holds. There are some long moves on this one too. 5.12a or b.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Oct 15, 2012

whats an SA? Sucky Attempt?

By bergschrund
Oct 18, 2012

Sweet line! I'm nowhere near a 5.12 climber, but I've done "Captain Moonlight's Wimpy Exit" variation (I just made that name up, I'm sure someone has done what I've done before). You exit left on the 4th class slab and corner after doing the mantle move at half height. Climbing is maybe 5.8+/5.9-. Very fun moves and well protected. Place a directional for your second after mantling.

By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Apr 11, 2013

I ripped off a pretty good crimp hold somewhere near the top, might be a little harder now.

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Apr 11, 2013

DAMIT Josh...