Captain Moonlite 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Morgan Patterson, SA: Nate Labieniec |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | CaptainMo on Nov 16, 2011 |
| |
Captain Mo, cleaning after the 1st Ascent.
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Description Starting 10ft right of Kyle's Corner, climb sloping arete up past diagonal crack (gear) on good holds past a bolt to a mantle move to gain the main ledge 15ft up (cam for directional is helpful down low). Starting at a good pocket up and left continue up the slightly overhanging face using good holds and small crimpers to the gain the lip and anchor. Good dynamic climbing on great holds. Many thanks to Ryan and Shylo for making this route happen!
Named after: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Captain_Moonlite
Location Left end of the Psycho Jap Wall. Start on sloping diagonal ramp 10ft right of Kyle's Corner.
Protection 2 yellow Metolious cams & 3 Bolts to Anchor.
| Comments on Captain Moonlite |
|
By Echoinfi
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| The anchor just got updated. This is a great route. It basically breaks down into three sections between good holds. There are some long moves on this one too. 5.12a or b. |
By Fall Guy
Oct 15, 2012
| whats an SA? Sucky Attempt? |
By bergschrund
Oct 18, 2012
| Sweet line! I'm nowhere near a 5.12 climber, but I've done "Captain Moonlight's Wimpy Exit" variation (I just made that name up, I'm sure someone has done what I've done before). You exit left on the 4th class slab and corner after doing the mantle move at half height. Climbing is maybe 5.8+/5.9-. Very fun moves and well protected. Place a directional for your second after mantling. |
By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Apr 11, 2013
| I ripped off a pretty good crimp hold somewhere near the top, might be a little harder now. |
By CaptainMo
Administrator
Apr 11, 2013
| DAMIT Josh... |
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