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 ADVANCED
The Captain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
38 Special T 
Acapulco Gold T 
Captain Jameson T 
Cheap Thrills T,S 
Grandview T,S 
Hazed and Confused  S 
Kids with Guns  T 
Lunar Illusions T 
Outside Corner  T 
Puttin' In Time T,S 
Warning, The T 
Washed Out T 

Captain Jameson 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 650'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough and Lincoln Tetherly
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,453
Submitted By: chinos on Oct 4, 2010

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Lincoln drilling the final bolt on P2

Description 

This is a full length route up the entire cliff. The climb starts in the same spot as Puttin in Time on the left side of the main toe of slab. The route took numerous attempts after snow, rain, and bugs drove us off the cliff. All protection bolts were placed free on the lead by hand. The R rating is for a few moderate runouts throughout the climb.

Pitches 1-4 climb on good quality rock. For those really seeking an adventure and don't mind a bit of choss continue up pitches 5 and 6.

P1: Climb straight up the left side of the slab past a big bowl sized hole and clip the first bolt. Run it out to the overlap and place gear. Move left and exit the overlap and continue straight up placing gear. Clip the second bolt and then a two bolt anchor. 170' 5.7 R

P2: A great slab pitch up pockets and flakes. Move up and left from the anchor and clip a bolt. Continue up past three more bolts into the flake and place a small cam. Move up and right into an obvious rock scar and clip a two bolt anchor. (Long runners on bolts 1 and 3 are helpful). 80' 5.9

P3: Traverse left 15' along a large flake and clip a bolt. Climb straight up the slab and place gear in a block feature. Run it out trending left on easy terrain into a left arching corner. Place gear up the corner and move up to a two bolt anchor at the base of the buttress. 110' 5.8 PG 13

P4: Move left from the anchor onto a ledge. Climb up the crack placing gear and follow it into a small left facing corner. Move right out of the corner making airy moves onto the face and up past two bolts. Move up through some bushes to buttress. Scramble up a short chossy gully to the left and gain a bolt anchor on a tree ledge. 100' 5.9

P5: Climb the fat crack straight up from the anchor to a ledge under a large roof. Traverse left around the corner and follow the corner/crack up into a chossy gully with trees. Move left out onto an exposed face and clip a bolt and small gear anchor. 90' 5.8

P6: The final pitch climbs straight up on big holds to the right side of the final headwall. Clip a bolt and climb up a chossy chimney! Gear can be placed but may not hold a fall. Exit the chimney and move up to a bolt and nut anchor. You made it to the top of The Captain! 65' 5.8 PG 13

Rappel the Route or try and walk off, I dare you!

Location 

Main Slab. Center of the Cliff

Protection 

Standard Rack, Bolts, Bolt Anchors. A handful of long runners.


Photos of Captain Jameson Slideshow Add Photo
View from the belay ledge on top of pitch 4. A gre...
View from the belay ledge on top of pitch 4. A gre...
Lincoln at the Parking Lot
Lincoln at the Parking Lot
Drilling on P2
Drilling on P2
A little night cap on the bivy ledge
A little night cap on the bivy ledge
drilling P2 anchors
drilling P2 anchors
Second attempt at P2. You can see the  roof above,...
Second attempt at P2. You can see the roof above,...
Lincoln at the P1 anchors. added the photo to show...
Lincoln at the P1 anchors. added the photo to show...

Comments on Captain Jameson Add Comment
Show which comments
By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Oct 4, 2010

Nice job guys, I like the effort you guys put in to get the job done. keep it up.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 5, 2010

Cool! ..a nice long route
By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 5, 2010

Awesome guys !!!! One of the best views in the Whites.
By Lincoln
Aug 8, 2011

you know it brotha!!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 8, 2011

The most happening crag in NH- So much to do and so good. I miss it and when back in NH I will go back to do it up