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World Domination
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Bobby's Got a Dirty Mouth 
Came as a Rat 
Captain Insano 
Mike's Got a Dirty Diaper 
Moltar! 
Napoleon's Highchair 
Sofa King 
Thor 
Weight Of The World 
World Leader Pretend 

Captain Insano 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Miller, Mike Snyder
Season: Summer and Fall
Page Views: 935
Submitted By: Mike Snyder on May 9, 2008
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Captain Insano

Description 

Easy moves up the dihedral to the fifth clip to a cruxy move very similar to the Dirty Mouth crux. Follow the left slanting crack for nine clips of amazing jug hauling on steep terrain. Heads up! for the last bolt - its crimpy, and after 95 feet you'll be pumped. An enduro burn for sure with nothing harder than 5.11.


Location 

Right of World Leader Pretend, begin in the crack/dihedral and follow the crack system up and left.


Protection 

14 clips, sport anchor



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By EldoFiend
From: WY
Apr 12, 2010

The end is a bit contrived in my opinion. Its 100 feet of jugs to one crimp from which you clip the chains. A good route, but there are not 8 clips of overhanging jugs as Huey writes.

By hEatchel
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Broken hold up top ?

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Outstanding, fantastic! One of my favorites in the Canyon. Definitely not 12a though (maybe in the Red).

By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

The holds on this are definitely not all jugs. Probably not even half of them are jugs! Great climb though.