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This prominent chimney is near the left end of the Buttress of Cracks. The first pitch (5.7) is a steep, well-protected chimney with a crux overhang at the top. The second pitch (5.6) is a slick, unpleasant chimney. It finishes at the top of the buttress, allowing you to scramble off.
standard rack, with a few medium to large pieces
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
Old school 5.8 rating for sure. The entry moves are the crux and the gear is super tricky here. I found BD C3's to work best and its nice to have 2 red C3's and a purple here. Anyone who rates this 5.7 is sandbagging. It was one of the harder 5.8 pitches I've ever led and I've climbed at old school trad areas all over the country. For comparison "The Hernia" which is also rated 5.8 is much easier, and less sustained.
Any truth to the rumor that a hold at the "nose" of the alligator broke off making that move up there harder? On the onsight that move felt every bit 5.9 and a good distance between your pieces with a nasty fall back into the funnel of the chimney a potential.
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Pretty well protected, this took some thinking to get through. Definitely harder than Hernia. I didn't find the finishing chimney slick at all, just a little strenuous laybacking. Rap off Insomnia with a 70m to get back down quick.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
We just did the first pitch and then traverse over to the rap anchors.
The start seemed all of 5.9 to me, with fiddly gear to boot. I had to streeeetch to get a spot for a small offset nut from the opening feet. And the spot required some cleaning with the nut tool just for bonus thrill.
The climb protected well past that up until the roof, though stock up on small to midsize nuts as they seemed to be the ticket.
I found the exit move pretty damn thrilling with the gear way down below your feet. Wouldn't want to fall.
From: San Diego
Oct 14, 2013
Really unique and exhilarating route. Crux is definitely down low, but pulling the horn is by far the psychological crux with your gear down low. I left some of the small gear with my partner...bad call cause you'll want it up high too. Probably will be a rude - exciting, if you have the gear - awakening, if you're breaking into the grade. I was feeling pretty good after doing El Camino the day before than was summarily humbled once I got on this.