Captain Hook is located on the west face of the Turkey Tail (if Quivering Quill is on the north, and most of the routes on the south) around the corner from Quivering Quill. It starts on a large ledge and climbs the steep face on edges past four bolts. I thought the crux came passing the first bolt, but the pitch is sustained most of the way. The first bolt has a piece of grey sling on it. This is a fantastic face climb on solid rock (mostly).
Four quickdraws. There is no anchor, so it's necessary to either lower off the last bolt, or clean it and move over to the raps for Quivering Quill. We set an anchor up high in a crack and toproped the climb.
|By Joe Leonhard|
From: Denver, CO
Jan 31, 2007
If I remember correctly, the crack up top takes #3, 3.5 and/or 4 Camalots. Use a runner to reduce rop drag over the lip.
|By Doug Lintz|
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 31, 2007
Excellent, sustained climbing. Cranking up to the diagonal crack I broke off one of the bigger edges just below the start of the crack.
From: Denver, CO
Sep 15, 2008
Fun sport route. Do you think it would make sense to put an anchor in place of the 4th bolt? It seems like everyone just lowers off that bolt anyways...would make it more safe.
|By Jeremy Steck|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 18, 2008
As of 9/08, that last bolt that everyone lowers from is looking really worn. It spins and there is some sign of it pulling away from the rock.
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 1, 2013
Someone chopped the last bolt, which doesn't change the safety or anything. The bolt was placed on top of the rock (where your feet stand hands free) and served as a one-bolt anchor. Currently you have to top out and build an anchor on hand-sized cams and then rap the Quivering Quill anchor.