Captain Hook 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Chris Dawson on Sep 6, 2004 |
| |
Joe Leonhard leading.
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Description Captain Hook is located on the west face of the Turkey Tail (if Quivering Quill is on the north, and most of the routes on the south) around the corner from Quivering Quill. It starts on a large ledge and climbs the steep face on edges past four bolts. I thought the crux came passing the first bolt, but the pitch is sustained most of the way. The first bolt has a piece of grey sling on it. This is a fantastic face climb on solid rock (mostly).
Protection Four quickdraws. There is no anchor, so it's necessary to either lower off the last bolt, or clean it and move over to the raps for Quivering Quill. We set an anchor up high in a crack and toproped the climb.
By Joe Leonhard
From: Denver, CO
Jan 31, 2007
| If I remember correctly, the crack up top takes #3, 3.5 and/or 4 Camalots. Use a runner to reduce rop drag over the lip. |
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 31, 2007
| Excellent, sustained climbing. Cranking up to the diagonal crack I broke off one of the bigger edges just below the start of the crack. |
By Joshh
From: Denver, CO
Sep 15, 2008
| Fun sport route. Do you think it would make sense to put an anchor in place of the 4th bolt? It seems like everyone just lowers off that bolt anyways...would make it more safe. |
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 18, 2008
| As of 9/08, that last bolt that everyone lowers from is looking really worn. It spins and there is some sign of it pulling away from the rock. |
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