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This problem goes through the overhang on the A7 boulder just under the V1 rail traverse. It starts in the back of the cave on huge jugs, goes up left to a little crimp, then right to a crimp, then some funky toehook beta to punch out straight to the end. Only about 4 real moves, but they all kicked my ass.
Mostly I posted this to scam beta off people, so if anyone wants to contribute, it would be greatly appreciated.
It's nice to have 2 pads, because you are right over a big block the whole time.
Crimps for the hands, double toe hooks for the fee...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 14, 2004
Hello, if possible could I get some advice on Beta for this problem.
I go to the left crimp by a left foor drop-knee then toe hook on the starting jub with my right to go to the right hand crimp. But for me the crux comes now... What does one do to punch to the jug/rail? I've tried crossing my left foot to this positive foot ledge (with my right stil in the toe hook) before removing my right foot to swing it around the corner for a toe hook. However, the foot ledge for me results in my both being fully extended and barn-dooring. Are there any other suggestions or just fight through it?
Any advice would be most welcome. Furthermore, if the "beta" I've given above is unclear please let me know and I'll try to rephrase it.
Sep 9, 2004
That's pretty much the way I do it. For me it is hard to toe hook on the Arete without cutting. The key is to just control your swing and squeeze on the two holds to keep you off the ground. Good luck
|By Ted Lanzano|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2008
For the V5 beta, you can actually do the entire problem with both feet hooked on edge. To do this fine method (not really), start by getting your feet established in the double hook using the ground and a few holds on the roof. Once in the hook, bring your hands back down to the start for the official beginning. Then it's pretty easy to crimp your way to the finishing lip all the way from the start. This is a total party trick and fairly ridiculous, but lots of fun!
|By Matt Battaglia|
Nov 18, 2008
rating: V9 7C
Alternative semi-tall guy beta: I'm not fond of drop knees, so I go right hand 1st to the sidepull, match my feet on the low rail, cross left foot to jib, right foot to toe hook (crux, it's static but long and tensiony), match toes and finish by punching it to the jug with right hand. I felt it solid for V9, but I think the only real hard move was getting the right toe set around the corner. If you're 5'11'' or taller, this sequence will go super easy, no foot cutting required.
Feb 22, 2009
Did this problem today. I felt dishonest taking 9 for what Matt has suggested above. I suggest V8 (I am six foot). I do think its 9 given the beta posted by AC.