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California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> B. El Capitan
> 1. Base Routes
> Southwest Base
> Slack to W Buttress
Captain Hook, Left
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Slack to West Buttress
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Captain Hook, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Captain Hook, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Delectable Pinnacle, Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Delectable Pinnacle, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Indubious Battle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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La Escuela T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mark of Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peter Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peter Pan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Practice Nailing Route T A2+ |
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Sacherer Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Short But Thin T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slack Center, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slack, Left, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,704 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Jan 13, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
As you're approaching the West Buttress area of El Cap there's a short downhill section just before the 3rd class with fixed lines. Just before this downhill section you will see an obvious 60ft tall flake on the wall above. It sits atop a ledge system about 30 or 40ft above the ground. This ledge can be access by some grassy 3rd class stuff over to the left or you can climb a direct start up the face directly below the Left Side route. This direct start is unprotected by basically amounts to a 30ft 5.6 bouldering problem.
Anyways the left side route starts up some flakes and stuff with sort of iffy pro. The climbing isn't hard though, as long as nothing breaks on you. Overall the climbing easier than it looks thanks to some good features on either side of the corner and after the first 20 ft you get some good pro. This climb can be a fun warm up for some of the harder routes in the area.
Rap with one rope from a bolted anchor at the top of the pinnacle. The bolts at the anchor are good.
Anyways the left side route starts up some flakes and stuff with sort of iffy pro. The climbing isn't hard though, as long as nothing breaks on you. Overall the climbing easier than it looks thanks to some good features on either side of the corner and after the first 20 ft you get some good pro. This climb can be a fun warm up for some of the harder routes in the area.
Rap with one rope from a bolted anchor at the top of the pinnacle. The bolts at the anchor are good.
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