The route is a very obvious crack on Leftovers at Turkey rocks. Currently there is a dead tree leaning against the rock to the left of the climb.
The route starts with a scramble up to a small roof. To tackle the large offwidth through the roof is more diffucult than 5.8 head on. Use the crack in the face to the left to pull the roof. After the roof you'll find some great offwidth that at times seems bottomless. Work your way directly up the crack to the next roof with a right angling crack. We ended the first pitch under this roof. The right angling crack was fun but not nearly as difficult as the first pitch. This crack tops out on a ramp and several variations lead to the top.
Rap off slings around chockstone to the back of the rock and proceed right between Leftovers and Turkey Rock to the base of the climb. I enjoyed the climb. It was in the true Turkey Rock style, nothing graceful about it.
Several #3 and #3.5 Camalots work well protecting the first pitch. Despite the word fist in the name it is much larger. The belay above the first pitch will require #2 Camalots.
BETA PHOTO: Gary dude on Pitch one of Captain Fist (on the lef...
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Captain Fist. You can see where I ...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 26, 2001
Is enough face holds to keep that climb enjoyable. Don't even need the wide crack to pull over the roof on.
|By Matt Juth|
Oct 13, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The slings are occasionally there, but not always. I've seen them twice in the past five years. If they are there; 2 60m ropes will get you to the ground or 2 50m will get you to a ledge below too much turkey. Don't count on them!
|By Matt Chan|
Sep 7, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
It's totally worthwhile to drag a #4 up to place in the underside of the roof and then have your second lug the thing up the second pitch. The route was certainly fun, but should have been named "Captain FistS". The short stretch of face climbing on the second pitch was a cool change for SPlatte climbing and was protected by a big stopper behind a questionable (in the case of a big fall) flake.
The rap slings were there, but were in terrible condition. Next time up, bring a knife, some replacement webbing, and a ring - you'll be glad you did.
BTW, if someone is able snag my stuck cam off P1, I'll gladly reward you for your efforts. Gave up after an hour of shredding my hands. Email me!
|By chris parks|
Mar 22, 2005
This was [definitely] a great route. No one was over here on a beautiful day while Turkey Rock had boatloads of people. [Definitely] bring extra 3.5's for the wide section past the 1st roof. We belayed at the second roof and then pulled the roof on the left to a finger crack that ran out to some relatively easy face climbing a wee bit [runout] (I think this is the actual route). We rapped off the backside on a somewhat dubious nest of slings around a chockstone, but there were also slings with rap rings in an [alcove] just above the [runout] face of pitch 2 (2 ropes would be needed to rap from here)
Jun 2, 2006
Very fun route. Although I skipped the upper offwidth section and went left onto Prime Rib, (also some good climbing). Ended pitch one at the second roof but kind of a crappy belay. I just used tricams and stoppers for the anchor. If you have a 60 meter rope, I would suggest going all the way to the second belay as long as you used long enough slings for the first roof. Second pitch was very fun and airy but very soft for a turkey rock 5.8. Definitely want a couple #4 , or #3.5 Camalots.