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Sugarloaf, East Face
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Captain Fingers 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FFA Mark Hudson 1970's
Season: Afternoon Shade
Page Views: 1,241
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Sep 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Captian Fingers follows a slabby finger crack up to the beautiful overhanging head wall. The crux is a very thin right leaning crack the splits the lichen covered face.

Climb up the finger crack, 5.10, following it right as it becomes a series of flakes and then pinches out. Do a few tricky moves 5.10+, clip a pin, and get established at the no hands stance below the crux. Place some gear, crimp hard, and try to stick the sequence to the midway rest.

Recover as best you can for a final section of strenuous under-clinging/laybacking until confronted with a final sequence of face holds. Pull over the lip, shout with victory and relax since you didn't whip onto any of the brass nuts that protect the route!

Location 

This climb is located to the right of Dominion (which can be climbed to setup a TR). There are are two bolts that can be used for an anchor. Long sings are useful to extend the anchor over the lip. There is a separate rappel station on the same ledge 10 feet to the right. A 70m rope is best for rappeling.

Protection 

The bottom section takes a variety of cams up to .75 camalot. A double set from .5" to 2" is sufficient. The 30 foot crux section takes good gear but it is very strenuous to place. Brass nuts (RP's) and offsets (HB) are suggested in addition to a .5 camalot and one or two very small cams (Black Alien).


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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 13, 2010
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

IMHO this has always been a sandbag at 12c. Sh*t, even the biggest sandbagger I know just smiles at me when he says its 12c...I always know what THAT grin means.

So, Luke did you lead it? Good on you if you did. I went up, climbed it, looked at the slab I would be hitting if any of the brassies blew and said "pass".
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Sep 14, 2010

My best was 1 fall on TR. My Partner lead it placing all the gear. We worked out the gear together. I feel the gear is very good. The only reason a nut would come out is because it was placed improperly all nuts were #3 RP or bigger. The trick is to place gear and then gun for the rest. Scarier but easier. If you want specific gear beta send me a DM.

As for the grade I don't have too many things to compare to. I thought it was right on for 12c. My difficulty ranking is as follows: Digital Readout, Stone Cold Crazy, Captain Fingers, Equinox, Desert Crack, Pyromania. IMO my progress was too quick on Captain Fingers for it to be 12d. Also of note it was my partner's first 5.12 gear route and he flashed it on TR. Granted he had climbed a few 5.13 sport routes...
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 15, 2010

Formerly an aid route called the Stanborough Memorial.

I wonder if the FFA had pins to clip?
By 213blc
From: THA WEST COAST
Feb 19, 2012
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

The beautiful upper headwall and technical, body tension demanding moves make this a great climb and excellent for TR-hero skill building, both for the moves and for placing pro in precarious positions! I'll be back...
By FGT
Oct 13, 2012

The following is from a supertopo thread but orginally by Rick Sumners in his Green Guide edition of Tahoe Rock:

Early in the year [1979], Mark Hudon and Max Jones freed the Stanborough Memorial renaming it Captain Fingers. The ascent was slightly blemished by the use of top rope rehearsal and pre placed protection. Later that year after a key hold had broken during subsequent aid ascents, Tony Yaniro repeated it finding it to be 5.12D or thereabouts!!!!!!!!!!

find thread here: www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1808935/Sugar-Loaf-a-brife->>>