Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Apocalypse Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
An Elephant Never Forgets  T 
Apocalypse Later S 
Bad Seed S 
Captain Fingers S 
Corporal Punishment S 
Good Earth S 
Kate's Arete S 
Serenity Now S 
Supreme Onion Sacrifice S 
They Come and They Go T 

Captain Fingers 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nick Yardley 10/87
Page Views: 1,632
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Nick Yardley stressing the very essence of fashion...
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another awesome 5.11c not quite as perfect as its neighbor of the same grade, Apocalypse Later, but still not to be missed. "Holy crimpers" this thing will make you work your fingers (hence the name). The hardest moves are at the bottom, and it's just a matter of not pumping out your crimp muscles as pretty much every hold is crimpy. There is however a creative rest toward the top that will put the route in the bag for you, find it and love it.


Location 

The left route on the right-most wall in this section.


Protection 

4 bolts to quick clips.



Photos of Captain Fingers Slideshow Add Photo
Undercling and Thumb-dercling
Undercling and Thumb-dercling
Comments on Captain Fingers Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kayte Knower
Mar 3, 2007

I like this route. Nice Rumney crimping, straightfoward in places and tricky in others. It has some cool technical moves, and reminded me of Smith Rocks.

By twellman
Apr 8, 2010

Are you supposed to move out left to the arete near the top? I did, and it was nice!

By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Aug 12, 2013

no quick clips anymore, bring yer ATC

By S. Neoh
Aug 25, 2013

The anchors are just two glue-ins. No links. Deserving of two links for each glue-in, IMO. Mark, the (expansion) bolts all seem fine today. Looks like two of them might be 1/2-inchers.
Still sharp after all these years. I tried the left arete variation between the third and fourth bolt. It definitely takes the stint out of that section of the route compared to straight up. Route is still .11c though. Going to the arete probably means quicker sends, that's all.
Unless it is against your ethics or you are very comfortable with crimpy 5.11 climbing, I recommend stick clipping the 1st bolt.

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

If anything I thought this one was harder than Apocalypse Later.