Captain Fingers 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Nick Yardley 10/87 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007 |
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Nick Yardley stressing the very essence of fashion...
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Description Another awesome 5.11c not quite as perfect as its neighbor of the same grade, Apocalypse Later, but still not to be missed. "Holy crimpers" this thing will make you work your fingers (hence the name). The hardest moves are at the bottom, and it's just a matter of not pumping out your crimp muscles as pretty much every hold is crimpy. There is however a creative rest toward the top that will put the route in the bag for you, find it and love it.
Location The left route on the right-most wall in this section.
Protection 4 bolts to quick clips.
Undercling and Thumb-dercling
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| Comments on Captain Fingers |
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By Kayte Knower
Mar 3, 2007
| I like this route. Nice Rumney crimping, straightfoward in places and tricky in others. It has some cool technical moves, and reminded me of Smith Rocks. |
By twellman
Apr 8, 2010
| Are you supposed to move out left to the arete near the top? I did, and it was nice! |
By S. Neoh
Jul 30, 2010
| Moving left at the 4th bolt is a relatively recent (~12 years) variation. We used to head almost straight up from just below the 4th bolt to the anchor.
Unless it is against your ethics or you are very comfortable with crimpy 5.11 climbing, I recommend stick clipping the 1st bolt. |
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