Captain Fairview  5.11b R

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Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Sean Kriletich/Bob Jensen New Route:  Yes Season:  summer/fall Submitted By:  bob jensen on Apr 15, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Topo for Captain Fairview / Lyme Line Direct

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Description 

Pitch 1: start up huge L facing L arching corner on the far left side of the dome. Arc de Triumph and Separation Anxiety share this pitch. Belay at small ledge below where arch heads left. 5.6 200'

Pitch 2: Follow straight up through overhanging corner stemming past blocks and very small pine tree. Continue up L facing corner staying L which turns into the "Half Dollar of Fairview." Climb this until ledge. 10a 190' NOTE: Optional belay before Half Dollar not recommended unless screwed with drag. Also, this Half Dollar climbs nothing like El Cap's version and doesn't even face the same direction. Its a half dollar though! :)

Pitch 3: From ledge follow flake (20 ft left of L facing corner) to roof with bolt. Climb up and right through roof to small stance at awkward L leaning corner. Continue up L trending feature to large ledge and belay. 11b

Pitch 4: From L side of ledge the "Butt Ass Seam" heads straight up. Follow this past some pins and gear until the crack peters out. Face climb past two bolts until small R facing corner is reached (Arch de Triumph) and belay upon reaching the ledge. 11a Two bolt anchor

Pitch 5: Very fun and wild pitch. Clip first bolt and do some 10a/b moves for a body length. Continue up ridiculous runout on 5.8 bomber rock, "The Sea of NO Knobs" until a bolt is reached thankfully. Curse FA party and head up to roof. Undercling up and right until hand rail leading out left through roof is reached. Fire in some bomb gear and monkey your ass left out the rail until you pull around lip to killer belay which is two bolts. 11b NOTE: take care using LONG runners through roof. Be wise.

Pitch 6: From this awesome belay at the base of the headwall climb up and right, traversing along the lip of the giant arching roof, clipping bolts and placing gear. IF the leader places good gear then the rope won't grate along the lip if a fall is taken. Reach the "A Farewell to Kings" / "Arc de Triumph" corner and belay a ways up/ back clean it so follower has peace of mind on last bit of traverse. 10c

Pitch 7,8,9,10 Follow FTK/AdT to top. All meet up with Inverted Staircase for last two pitches. Consult book

Location 

Route is on far left side of dome. Walk to base of Inverted Staircase and you will see this giant corner. You can see it from road. Walk off same as all other routes.

Protection 

Doubles from tips to #2 Camalot
1 # 3 camalot
Small set nuts
Generous supply of extendable slings and some draws. 10 total?

Photos of Captain Fairview Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Foreshortened layout photo. Cpt. Fairview is red....	Sean pulling across hand rail through roof of pitc...	Corey Flynn headed up to pitch 5 roof on "Sea of N...