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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Roving for Love 
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Senorita 
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Strangle Hold 
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Super Slab Direct Start 
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Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
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Velvet Hammer 
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Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 

Captain Crunch 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: [Kyle Copeland, FFA Dale Goddard]
Page Views: 2,200
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 11, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Dan Levison starting the business on The Crunch. ...
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  • Description 

    This is the rarest of rare -- a 5.13 sport route in Eldorado Canyon. While not as good as its compatriots Your Mother or The Web, it's still a good tick for those who like bouldery routes (the business is only 20 feet long).

    This route is on the small (40-foot high) buttress below and south of the Roof Wall, right above the start of the trail up to the west side of Redgarden Wall. It's just down and right of a thin crack (Breakfast of Champions) and can be recognized by a large grey half-inch bolt partway out the overhang and by the bounty of chalk on the flakes underneath the lip.

    Aid out to the 1/2 inch bolt via a rusty pin and an old star drive on the left. Clip it and lower down, as the actual climbing begins down and right. Burly slap moves take you up the funky, overhanging rib to a final lip encounter on poor slopers (don't bother with this route if it's hot out). Another bolt or two gets you over the slab and up to the rusty chain anchors.


    Protection 

    Five to six quickdraws.



    Photos of Captain Crunch Slideshow Add Photo
    The crux of Captain Crunch.
    The crux of Captain Crunch.
    Comments on Captain Crunch Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 20, 2012
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Oct 11, 2001

    13a/b? Sounds good to me. This route also has a fairly hairy slab at the top. I remember bringing a stopper or two to supplement the bolts. Also this is easy to work out on TR. In fact there's a great 5.11 corner just to the left to warm up with on TR. Almost like Rifle.

    By Joe Huggins
    From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
    Oct 12, 2001

    Although the guidebook credits Charlie with this route, I'm afraid I have to take primary responsibility. Kyle Copeland did it on aid and suggested that I should do it as a free route. To make a long story short, Charlie joined in the crusade after I had been at it a while and together we worked out the crux moves but couldn't continue to the top. The crux bolt has been replaced and two more added, I believe, by Dale Goddard, who I believe also deserves credit for the first ascent. Cheers, Joe

    By Nate Weitzel
    Apr 22, 2002

    I am curious, does the line start directly below the gray bolt, or is it "allowed" to traverse in from the left following the aid bolt section? Both seemed tough, but obviously not the crux so I wondered if it matters to anyone?

    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 23, 2002

    It matters only if it matters to you. The crux is indeed higher than the section you are concerned about. It is common practise to work this on TR, and on the redpoint have the first 2 pieces (a pin and a bolt, I think) clipped to start. P.S. get on this before it gets much hotter.

    By Nate Weitzel
    Apr 23, 2002

    Agreed, those sloper holds above the lip require good temperatures!

    By Joe Huggins
    From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
    May 23, 2002

    To answer the question about where the route goes... I placed the "aid" bolt without actually knowing how the moves would work out. Eventually I started down to the right which is the standard way. I saw a couple of very strong lads a couple of years back who did it directly from the first bolt which looks real hard but saves a lot of distance.

    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Jul 7, 2005
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

    It's interesting how tastes differ. I think this route is every bit as good as The Web, and better than Your Mother.

    By Ben Randolph
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 8, 2007

    I thought this was a pretty good boulder problem. Ok for a route needs to be longer. Fun either way.

    By Josh Gross
    Feb 4, 2008

    Great route, fun crux. 8a Good cold weather route, sun 12pm-1pm 2pm 3:30pm

    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 10, 2008
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c PG13

    Great winter climb (2 windows of sun and protected from the wind). Exciting/spicy runouts hence the "S" rating. More fun than The Web!

    By kiff
    Mar 20, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

    This is the most condition dependent route I've been on in smeldo. Considerably easier than The Web. Ya gotta start on the ground after getting the first bolt clipped, none of that aiding bs....