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Metropolis Sector
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Captain Confusion S 
Metropolis S 
Shazam S 

Captain Confusion 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Bill Launder, Bill Ramsey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,026
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 8, 2003

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  • Description 

    This route was originally named "The Fuck-up," partially after the book by Arthur Nessarian, as, coming down off the anchors, I'd inadvertently bolted the blank-ass line to the right instead of this, a more obvious line up a weakness/water streak. Captain Confusion is a nice way of saying I effed up. Either way, this is a great route.

    This striking line climbs up the gently overhanging white streak through the lower bit of the wall that, once over the lip, becomes a black streak. The rock is water-hardened, clean and not subject to any Fortress Dust nonsense.

    This climb is three routes -- or 50 feet -- left of Metropolis (Metropolis; Shazam; open project with a fixed draw or two; Captain Confusion). Scramble up onto a ledge (careful--it's shaley!) and traverse right past a bolt with a camoflauged hanger to the base of a small offset corner. Either leave a long sling on the traverse bolt to offset rope drag, or unclip and just go into the second bolt.

    The rock crests over you like a wave--very steep but pretty good holds. Bouldery moves gain a kneescum against a pillar/flake followed by a definite crux and more sustained climbing to a good resting hole at 80 feet. Another couple of cruxes above this at the base of the smooth corner take you onto the headwall (5.11/11+), which may be a bit sandy but has good, positive edges overall. End at a hueco.


    Protection 

    14-15 quickdraws, one long sling and a 70-meter rope (mandatory).



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