Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | Matt Samet, Bill Launder, Bill Ramsey |
Page Views: | 2,745 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jul 7, 2003 |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book.
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
Access Issue: Closures from February 15- August 15
Details
The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!
Description
This route was originally named "The Fuck-up," partially after the book by Arthur Nessarian, as, coming down off the anchors, I'd inadvertently bolted the blank-ass line to the right instead of this, a more obvious line up a weakness/water streak. Captain Confusion is a nice way of saying I effed up. Either way, this is a great route.
This striking line climbs up the gently overhanging white streak through the lower bit of the wall that, once over the lip, becomes a black streak. The rock is water-hardened, clean and not subject to any Fortress Dust nonsense.
This climb is three routes -- or 50 feet -- left of Metropolis (Metropolis; Shazam; open project with a fixed draw or two; Captain Confusion). Scramble up onto a ledge (careful--it's shaley!) and traverse right past a bolt with a camoflauged hanger to the base of a small offset corner. Either leave a long sling on the traverse bolt to offset rope drag, or unclip and just go into the second bolt.
The rock crests over you like a wave--very steep but pretty good holds. Bouldery moves gain a kneescum against a pillar/flake followed by a definite crux and more sustained climbing to a good resting hole at 80 feet. Another couple of cruxes above this at the base of the smooth corner take you onto the headwall (5.11/11+), which may be a bit sandy but has good, positive edges overall. End at a hueco.
This striking line climbs up the gently overhanging white streak through the lower bit of the wall that, once over the lip, becomes a black streak. The rock is water-hardened, clean and not subject to any Fortress Dust nonsense.
This climb is three routes -- or 50 feet -- left of Metropolis (Metropolis; Shazam; open project with a fixed draw or two; Captain Confusion). Scramble up onto a ledge (careful--it's shaley!) and traverse right past a bolt with a camoflauged hanger to the base of a small offset corner. Either leave a long sling on the traverse bolt to offset rope drag, or unclip and just go into the second bolt.
The rock crests over you like a wave--very steep but pretty good holds. Bouldery moves gain a kneescum against a pillar/flake followed by a definite crux and more sustained climbing to a good resting hole at 80 feet. Another couple of cruxes above this at the base of the smooth corner take you onto the headwall (5.11/11+), which may be a bit sandy but has good, positive edges overall. End at a hueco.
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