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Barn Door Boulder
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Captain Condor 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 612
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Dec 19, 2008

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Description 

I haven't done this route, I have worked on it though, I just think it should be included. Sit start on a huge side pull and undercling, pull up to side pull/gaston in vertical seem, top out up and right. This routes starting feet are desperately small which makes the first move in my opinion the crux, I also feel like to be short would be a distinct advantage at the start. This route is what could be defined as intricate because of the precise movements that are required, to send the route.


Location 

On West side of the Barn Door Boulder. Easy to pick out because of the big side pull and undercling that are used for the start 2 feet off the ground.


Protection 

Pad.



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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 1, 2009

I cant figure this thing out the start is so weird!

By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
Mar 3, 2010

gods joke to climbers. i can maybe get my ass off the ground 1 in 10 attempts

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 5, 2013

Finally sent this thing today after many years of on and off, sporadic attempts. For a long time I tried the left knee scum beta, I always felt close this way but could never get it to work. Today I tried a heel hook out right and moving up with the right hand instead of left and sent it in a handful of goes... Lesson learned don't lock yourself into specific beta, keep an open mind :)

Also, I always thought this was going to feel way harder then v5 when I sent, however, now I agree with that grade, solid v5. A very good boulder problem.