Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
FA: | Paul Crawford, Richard Harrison and Nick Nordblum, 1982 |
Page Views: | 877 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on May 29, 2007 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
This is the face just left of Vanishing Point, and finishes on the Vanishing Point anchor. It is 170', so you need 2 ropes to get down. You might be able to get to the Craven Image anchor, but not sure.
The face is characterized by dikes and a number of knobs. The knobs resemble coconuts, hence the route name. There is a thinish discontinuous crack down low which takes some so-so gear, a long face section, and then a finger crack stemming corner to the anchor.
The FA told a friend of mine (third hand info alert!) that you can sling the coconuts. In my humble opinion, most of those would not hold a fall, as the tops of many of those coconuts are rounded and slopey.
I toproped this climb. It is a very fun toprope, but would be a harrowing lead.
The face is characterized by dikes and a number of knobs. The knobs resemble coconuts, hence the route name. There is a thinish discontinuous crack down low which takes some so-so gear, a long face section, and then a finger crack stemming corner to the anchor.
The FA told a friend of mine (third hand info alert!) that you can sling the coconuts. In my humble opinion, most of those would not hold a fall, as the tops of many of those coconuts are rounded and slopey.
I toproped this climb. It is a very fun toprope, but would be a harrowing lead.
Protection
This climb would be a very, very serious lead. I listed it as R, but it might even cross the line into X. Nuts, Cams to 1". Slings for marginal knob tie offs. There are no bolts on this climb.
One anchor bolt is a rusty 1/4"er. The webbing was replaced 5/07, there is a rap ring and a quick link.
One anchor bolt is a rusty 1/4"er. The webbing was replaced 5/07, there is a rap ring and a quick link.
Photos
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