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Mickey Mouse Wall
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Captain Beyond 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Roger and Bill Briggs, 1974
Page Views: 6,456
Submitted By: George Bell on Aug 28, 2001

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Chuck Graves at the 10c crux. A few more feet and ...

  • Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 each year. MORE INFO >>>
  • Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    If you like cracks of all widths, try this climb!

    P1: Begin 8' left of Culp's Fault. Follow a steep crack through a small roof (10a) and belay after 80'. Note: there is a short wide section near the top of this crack, for which a #4 Camalot can be useful.

    P2: Traverse left 20' to the next crack, and head on up to belay on the main ledge with 2 bolts that runs across the wall. Walk left along this ledge. 110'.

    P3: Climb a short slab to the base of an obvious, right-facing dihedral with an offwidth crack. This is a very short pitch and involves an unprotected 5.8 move up the slab. Probably some of these first 3 pitches can be combined if you like, but with the traverses, it's probably best to stick with this game plan.

    P4: Climb the dreaded offwidth! It's difficulty is directly related to hand size (in my experience). If your hands are big enough, you can fist jam the crux (easier). You don't need any oversize cams as the crack is 3-4" in the back through the crux. Continue up an easier chimney, and belay on a ledge with 2 bolts (same stance as the last belay on Perversion).

    P5: Cross Perversion and work up and left to a steep, right-facing dihedral, and climb it (10b). This is a stellar pitch in itself and is recommended if you are climbing Perversion and looking for a harder exit.

    Protection 

    Standard rack up to #4 Friend. For bomber pro at the crux, bring extra #3-#3.5 Camalot sized pieces. P1 and P5 are mostly thin cracks. [Eds. many folks have reported feeling inadequately prepared with a #4 Friend. #4 Camalot(s) may be wise.]


    Photos of Captain Beyond Slideshow Add Photo
    Joseffa Meir on Captain Beyond.  Photo by Tony Bub...
    Joseffa Meir on Captain Beyond. Photo by Tony Bub...
    Great album dedicated to the memory of Duane Allma...
    Great album dedicated to the memory of Duane Allma...
    Working through the crux of pitch 1.  (1 of 3)
    Working through the crux of pitch 1. (1 of 3)
    Working through the crux of pitch 1.  (3 of 3)
    Working through the crux of pitch 1. (3 of 3)
    BETA PHOTO
    Steve finishing pitch two, miles of beautiful fing...
    Steve finishing pitch two, miles of beautiful fing...
    The traverse is easy until this point, when it get...
    The traverse is easy until this point, when it get...
    BETA PHOTO
    The start of pitch one is not visible in the photo...
    The start of pitch one is not visible in the photo...
    Looking down the 1st pitch, Brad White climbing. T...
    BETA PHOTO: Looking down the 1st pitch, Brad White climbing. T...
    The 5.8 slab and the 10c crux pitch.
    The 5.8 slab and the 10c crux pitch.
    Luke Clarke on the 5.8 third pitch. The move off t...
    Luke Clarke on the 5.8 third pitch. The move off t...
    The first move above the ceiling is pretty easy. T...
    The first move above the ceiling is pretty easy. T...
    Working through the crux of pitch 1.  (2 of 3)
    Working through the crux of pitch 1. (2 of 3)
    Looking up at the first hard moves in the left cra...
    Looking up at the first hard moves in the left cra...
    Greg leading Sidewinder.
    Greg leading Sidewinder.
    On the last pitch.
    On the last pitch.
    Mickey Mouse Wall is very, very good to me.
    Mickey Mouse Wall is very, very good to me.
    Peering up at the first hard moves. Fingertip layb...
    Peering up at the first hard moves. Fingertip layb...
    Steve walking the second pitch.
    Steve walking the second pitch.
    Placing gear at the base of the wide crack. A #4 C...
    Placing gear at the base of the wide crack. A #4 C...
    Last or 4th pitch, and a lot harder than it looks....
    BETA PHOTO: Last or 4th pitch, and a lot harder than it looks....
    Great rest here, but first you have to see it, and...
    Great rest here, but first you have to see it, and...
    Captain Beyond pitch 1 from the Perversion ledge. ...
    Captain Beyond pitch 1 from the Perversion ledge. ...

    Show All 24 Photos

    Only the first 24 are shown above.

    Comments on Captain Beyond Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 30, 2014
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 29, 2001

    Nice addition. P1 has a wide section near the end of the pitch. I watched a fellow fail to protect this well, pitch out of the wide section, and deck. He only broke an ankle, because gear well below kept his back off the ground. Very good wires or a medium Friend can be placed just before entering the wide section. At the top of this slot, a good piece can be placed in the roof crack prior to pulling the roof. I think that the guy I watched fell while hauling over roof, which was poorly protected.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 29, 2001

    Yeah, I remember that wide section now (it was a few years ago that I did the route!). Thanks for adding those tips.

    Another tip: if you have small hands, try wrapping an entire roll of tape around each hand for the crux! However, this may be considered aid by purists.
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Oct 27, 2001

    I'd recommend bringing a big piece for the wide section on the first pitch. I thought that section was the crux of the pitch; the roof above it is probably the easiest part of the pitch, despite what the guidebooks show.
    By Ben Mottinger
    Founding Father
    Nov 2, 2001

    At the end of the second pitch, if you're looking to bail, you can rap with TWO ropes to the ground. (50m ropes may be long enough--we did this with 2 60s and had about 10-15m extra--anyone else know for sure?)
    By david goldstein
    Jan 27, 2003

    Excellent route. The last pitch may be the best of its grade in Eldo. The unprotected slab is probably harder for those below a certain height (6'0"?), but one of the (relatively) new belay bolts can be used as a foothold to take the teeth out of this section. Recommended pro for the wide part: #4 Friend, #4 Camalot, #3 Camalot, #3.5 Friend; I didn't have the #3.5 and had to run it out on the upper part.

    The second pitch is quality but somewhat contrived. If you continue up the line of the first pitch, you will end up at the big ledge at the start of the 3rd pitch w/out having done the second pitch. The traverse to the second pitch proper should occur shortly around where the first pitch hits easier ground.
    By Joe Collins
    Aug 1, 2003

    I took advantage of the end of the raptor closures and did this route this morning. If there is a better combination of splitter 5.10 Eldo crack pitches, then I have yet to see it. Dave Goldstein's gear suggestion for the crux pitch is pretty much right on.... I had a #3, 3.5, and 4 Camalots which worked, though one could probably do it with less backcleaning with a second #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend). A couple specific comments on the 1st pitch: 1) the fixed anchor indicated in the Rossiter topo at the end of the first pitch does not exist; 2) the first pitch is a harsh warm-up... it felt way harder that the last pitch 10b.

    Watch out for posion ivy!

    Beware of poison ivy along the cliff base! It's everywhere right now. It puts the Black Canyon ivy situation to shame. Watch for the annoying small sprig of P.I. on the last pitch.... I didn't realize what it was until I nearly climbed through it.

    Best multi-pitch 5.10 at Eldo.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 18, 2004

    #3.5 Camalot is the beta on the wide. The #4 Friend suggestion in the Rossiter guide is all I went by and it only fit at the very beginning of the wide. What a great route!! I thought the first pitch could easily get a 10c rating as well.
    By nolteboy
    Oct 24, 2005

    One of the best multi-pitch 5.10s I've done on the Front Range. Since the route traverses left for a significant distance over its entire length, it ends up being quite a bit longer than if it just went straight up.
    By ac
    Nov 16, 2005

    Regarding the 3rd pitch, I'm 5' 11" and thought the initial moves were probably 9+ or 10a. Short, but not a pitch to take lightly given the ankle-busting potential.
    By Danny Inman
    From: Arvada
    Sep 25, 2006

    Incredible route that throws it all at you, fingers, hands, fists, hand-fist stacks, slab, etc....

    The first pitch is in your face from the start. Leading first pitch, I kept going, following the crack system to a belay that I thought was the one indicated in Rossiter's book. This was about 110' although more direct this caused me to miss the entire second pitch -oh well....

    As for the slab, it is indeed pretty spicy, I would suggest running the slab and OW together so you can save a few hand/fist pieces for the 5.7 section above the OW.

    Highly recommended!
    By Stefanie Van Wychen
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 25, 2006

    Ditto on the offwidth being hand-size-dependent, my boyfriend has big hands and he cruised it, but I had to hand stack, and it was pretty difficult. Mainly, I could move up, but removing gear was tricky. And the 3rd pitch slab is pretty dicey, I led this thinking it was all over once I got my feet up on the first ledge - not so - it still has one more spicy move to give - especially if you're short.

    HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ROUTE - Every pitch seemed to be its own climb!!!
    By kirkadirka
    From: Boulder
    Aug 17, 2007

    Climbed first 2 pitches of Captain Beyond to last 2 pitches of Perversion. "Beyond Perversion" avoids the offwidth and crux of Captain beyond but was definitely a fun variation.

    As a leader breaking into the 10s, I was hanging on the first 10a pitch. Muy stout.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Nov 10, 2008

    Good advice, George.... Even if you don't have little girl hands, you should consider a good tape job. A few extra wraps on the thumb may be helpful. Taping your ankles and wearing knee pads should also be considered for P4. I was glad that I brought 2 #4 C4 Camalots.

    Linking P1 and P2 is a demanding 175ft lead. I only had a handful of nuts on my rack when I reached the anchors. A pumpy pitch....
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Jan 21, 2009

    My vote for best 5.10 crack route in the Boulder area! Be careful not to yard on that loose flake on pitch 2.
    By Kevin Gillest
    From: Arvada, CO
    Aug 3, 2010
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Climbed the route with Brad White the day the closure ended, August 1st. No doubt, one of the best 5.10s I have ever climbed in the area. We did not take doubles on BD #4, ended up leap frogging gear on pitch 3. Very sustained but well worth the effort.

    The top rappel needs another long runner, we did not have anything to leave.
    By Chris Ferraro
    Nov 5, 2011
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Recommend doing it in 3 pitches. As described in the page route description, link 1&2, 3&4.

    Can do it w/o much issue w a single rack from C3s to #2, 2 x #3, 2 x #4 (one new, one old). Sizes are BD C4.

    Anchor's in pretty good shape. Not crazy about the second anchor, quite a nest of tat.
    By MikeS
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 20, 2013

    Bring a knife, if you think, of it to clean up the rap anchors. They are becoming so filled with tat that it's hard to thread the ropes through...wish I could have fixed them today but didn't have one with me. There is plenty of good material to leave, as well as plenty of junk to clean. Thank you!
    By pfwein
    Aug 30, 2014

    Warning detailed beta:
    On the wide crux, I used my two big pieces (an old #4 Camalot and #4 C4) early in the wide section, got up to the sort of "rest" (with a foot out right) and saw I needed another similar sized cam to keep going. I was able to fit a very tipped out #3 C4 at my feet, lowered and retrieved my old #4. So, at least for me, you need either 3 similar sized big pieces, or space the 2 out better (which is what most people do I imagine; I put my first one in very near the bottom, that could have been left out or backcleaned). #3 C4 won't work until you're higher in the crack. For climbing, I did a few fist jams, then layback to the "rest," then more, somewhat easier chimneying. A full single set of cams/nuts below #3 would probably be fine on this pitch. On the other pitches, finger-sized cams and surrounding sizes are more useful. This beta is for someone who is challenged by the route; stronger climbers could probably make any "standard rack" work fine, with at least 1 #4.