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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Unsorted Routes:

Captain America 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jay Fredinburg
Page Views: 3,285
Submitted By: Rog on Nov 8, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (99)
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Passing the second bolt.

Description 

After following the main trail, there is an obvious branch to a side canyon on the right. Immediately on the right is a 'hueco ridden' buttress. This is Captain America. Do a very short 3rd class scramble up to a belay ledge. Note there is a very helpful hold (perhaps glued?? Bob - history??) to aid in this ascent.

The first clip is easy - step up, clip, step down, and then readdress the problem straight on. Note that peeling while clipping bolt 2 is not good. It is not a hard move, but stupid people like myself will hurt their ankle. Bob D's guidebook says not to lower or TR off the anchors - we did not see this as an issue...???


Protection 

3 bolts & cold shuts.



Photos of Captain America Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan pulling Captain America.  The crux is right around the 1st bolt, but it's significantly easier after that.
Ryan pulling Captain America. The crux is right a...
Tristan about to clip the first bolt (a bit high above the ground).
Tristan about to clip the first bolt (a bit high a...
Bill Geist well above the crux of Captain America.
Bill Geist well above the crux of Captain America....
Wacos to the left-of-center mark top of "Captain America"
Wacos to the left-of-center mark top of "Captain A...
Me leading Captain America in Penitente Canyon.
Me leading Captain America in Penitente Canyon.
Tristan at the second bolt.
Tristan at the second bolt.
Jessica.
Jessica.
A look at Captain America from the trail.
BETA PHOTO: A look at Captain America from the trail.
Comments on Captain America Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Mar 15, 2004

Great route but way too short for 3 stars.

By Pneumoped
Sep 7, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I led this yesterday (9/6/2004). A nice climb if only it was a bit longer. Note: about 200 yards from the parking area on the main trail we ran into a nice fat beefy rattlesnake. Just beware when approaching the climbs in this area as it is a long way to the hospital.

With respect to the top anchor comments on Captain America here is what I observed. The existing anchors consist of three bolts. As I recall the two on the left were rap anchors and the one on the right had a clip hanger on it. The anchor in the middle had a beefy chain hanging from it. One of the bolts was loose and could use tightening.

Further, below the fixed anchors were two empty bolt holes and a third bolt that was chopped and left in the hole. Perhaps those bolt holes and/or the chopped bolt made up the original anchor that was less inspiring.

Cheers,Chris

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
May 29, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Fun climb but felt stiff for 10a. Did the flake on the left at the first bolt break off recently? (looks like there migth be a scar). I did not see anything weird about the initial slab....

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Fun climbing--wish it was longer though!

By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

I've never really liked this one. The crux is definitely more strenuous than 10a as compared to other 10s in the canyon - small feet with slopey pockets or awkward sidepulls on overhanging rock. Also, the second bolt is pretty high given the ledge below. The rest of the route has some fun huecos though.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2009

Good route but getting past that first bolt is tricky and pumpy. Felt harder than 5.10a. After that good climbing up to the anchor.

By Brandon80
From: Denver, Co
Sep 19, 2010

Great route. However, I don't know if the rating is accurate. The crux is up to the first bolt and just past. After that the route drops to maybe 5.8 or so. Still, it's a really fun climb.

By NEH
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

One hard move (and not really very fun move) to 5.7/5.8 climbing. I'm not sure why this is so popular. The routes on the Hueco Wall are similar but way better.

By Levi Wilner
From: Alamosa, CO
Jun 15, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

Agree with NEH. Why is this so popular? Why is the first bolt so far left? 1 move to 5.8 climbing, not a fan.