Captain America 

Great route but way too short for 3 stars.

I led this yesterday (9/6/2004). A nice climb if only it was a bit longer. Note: about 200 yards from the parking area on the main trail we ran into a nice fat beefy rattlesnake. Just beware when approaching the climbs in this area as it is a long way to the hospital.

With respect to the top anchor comments on Captain America here is what I observed. The existing anchors consist of three bolts. As I recall the two on the left were rap anchors and the one on the right had a clip hanger on it. The anchor in the middle had a beefy chain hanging from it. One of the bolts was loose and could use tightening.

Further, below the fixed anchors were two empty bolt holes and a third bolt that was chopped and left in the hole. Perhaps those bolt holes and/or the chopped bolt made up the original anchor that was less inspiring.

Cheers,Chris

Fun climb but felt stiff for 10a. Did the flake on the left at the first bolt break off recently? (looks like there migth be a scar). I did not see anything weird about the initial slab....

Fun climbing--wish it was longer though!

I've never really liked this one. The crux is definitely more strenuous than 10a as compared to other 10s in the canyon - small feet with slopey pockets or awkward sidepulls on overhanging rock. Also, the second bolt is pretty high given the ledge below. The rest of the route has some fun huecos though.

Good route but getting past that first bolt is tricky and pumpy. Felt harder than 5.10a. After that good climbing up to the anchor.

Great route. However, I don't know if the rating is accurate. The crux is up to the first bolt and just past. After that the route drops to maybe 5.8 or so. Still, it's a really fun climb.

One hard move (and not really very fun move) to 5.7/5.8 climbing. I'm not sure why this is so popular. The routes on the Hueco Wall are similar but way better.

Agree with NEH. Why is this so popular? Why is the first bolt so far left? 1 move to 5.8 climbing, not a fan.