Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This route is located to the left of Mr. Natural. It is better thought of as a top-rope route, since the first real pro is after the crux. This route can be easily TR'ed after making an ascent of Mr. Natural (8+).
Make some delicate moves under the overhang to a break which about 5 feet to the right of the arete. Pull the overhang on good holds (crux), and cruise the easier textured rock above. If you blow the crux on lead, you would land on a large boulder on your back.
Descent: Rap from the tree directly above the line. (60 feet)
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Feb 1, 2002 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a R
Getting started seemed to be the crux, and felt a little hard for 5.9.
A variation boulder problem start (just a few moves) is to pull onth the arete from underneith the left hand side of the base of the arete, essentially doing a big overhang move to gain the arete. This will probably feel like 5.10d. We called this boulder-problem start "Captain 4Z" at the time.
By Ivan Rezucha From: Fort Collins, CO Oct 24, 2004 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
"Captain 4Q" was apparently a comic and/or a character in a comic. Found only this on Google:"my list ...includes the forbidden fruit of EC Comics, Wonder Warthog, Captain 4Q, and other subversive intelligentsia."
By Phil Lauffen From: The Bubble May 8, 2009 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a R
Fun TR from Mr. Natural. I didn't see any possible gear placements.
By Mark Roth From: Boulder Apr 28, 2010 rating: 5.10-6a18VI+18E1 5a R
This is called Santa Ana in the new book.
There is a nut placement on the left that would keep you from rolling down the trail, but probably not off the ground....
Crash pad might be better pro than gear.
By Patrik Jul 13, 2011 rating: 5.10-6a18VI+18E1 5a X
I have no idea where the 5.9 rating in the books come from. This is spankin' hard!
I guess we thought it was maybe 10- the first time. Then we all promptly soloed it, with the rope still on the Mr. N. tree for the rap. Later, when I 3rd classed it again, I found that the real business was getting back down.