|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||[Jim Stuberg, Mike Brooks, Joe Huggins as TR then boulder problem]|
|Submitted By:||Guy H. on Aug 24, 2001|
|Comments on Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 1, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Getting started seemed to be the crux, and felt a little hard for 5.9.
A variation boulder problem start (just a few moves) is to pull onth the arete from underneith the left hand side of the base of the arete, essentially doing a big overhang move to gain the arete. This will probably feel like 5.10d. We called this boulder-problem start "Captain 4Z" at the time.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 24, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|"Captain 4Q" was apparently a comic and/or a character in a comic. Found only this on Google:"my list ...includes the forbidden fruit of EC Comics, Wonder Warthog, Captain 4Q, and other subversive intelligentsia."|
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
|Fun TR from Mr. Natural. I didn't see any possible gear placements.|
By Mark Roth
Apr 28, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
This is called Santa Ana in the new book.
There is a nut placement on the left that would keep you from rolling down the trail, but probably not off the ground....
Crash pad might be better pro than gear.
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
|I have no idea where the 5.9 rating in the books come from. This is spankin' hard!|
By Joe Huggins
From: Grand Junction
Sep 10, 2011
|I guess we thought it was maybe 10- the first time. Then we all promptly soloed it, with the rope still on the Mr. N. tree for the rap. Later, when I 3rd classed it again, I found that the real business was getting back down.|