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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Arcane Saw 
Bitter Route, The 
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Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana 
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Clyncke Punched a Hippy 
Day Dream 
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Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation 
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Roving for Love 
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Strangle Hold 
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Super Slab Direct Start 
Tiny Line 
Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
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Velvet Hammer 
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Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: [Jim Stuberg, Mike Brooks, Joe Huggins as TR then boulder problem]
Page Views: 485
Submitted By: Guy H. on Aug 24, 2001
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Heel hooking to make the reach to the second bucke...
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  • Description 

    This route is located to the left of Mr. Natural. It is better thought of as a top-rope route, since the first real pro is after the crux. This route can be easily TR'ed after making an ascent of Mr. Natural (8+).

    Make some delicate moves under the overhang to a break which about 5 feet to the right of the arete. Pull the overhang on good holds (crux), and cruise the easier textured rock above. If you blow the crux on lead, you would land on a large boulder on your back.

    Descent: Rap from the tree directly above the line. (60 feet)


    SR, including small cams.

    Photos of Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana Slideshow Add Photo
    Luke making the reach without the heel hook that I used. Luke must be stronger.
    Luke making the reach without the heel hook that I...
    Chuck doing a bizarre backstep that somehow enabled him to reach the initial holds at the lip.
    Chuck doing a bizarre backstep that somehow enable...
    Comments on Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Feb 1, 2002
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

    Getting started seemed to be the crux, and felt a little hard for 5.9.

    A variation boulder problem start (just a few moves) is to pull onth the arete from underneith the left hand side of the base of the arete, essentially doing a big overhang move to gain the arete. This will probably feel like 5.10d. We called this boulder-problem start "Captain 4Z" at the time.

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 24, 2004
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    "Captain 4Q" was apparently a comic and/or a character in a comic. Found only this on Google:"my list ...includes the forbidden fruit of EC Comics, Wonder Warthog, Captain 4Q, and other subversive intelligentsia."

    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    May 8, 2009
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

    Fun TR from Mr. Natural. I didn't see any possible gear placements.

    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Apr 28, 2010
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

    This is called Santa Ana in the new book.

    There is a nut placement on the left that would keep you from rolling down the trail, but probably not off the ground....

    Crash pad might be better pro than gear.

    By Patrik
    Jul 13, 2011
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a X

    I have no idea where the 5.9 rating in the books come from. This is spankin' hard!

    By Joe Huggins
    From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
    Sep 10, 2011

    I guess we thought it was maybe 10- the first time. Then we all promptly soloed it, with the rope still on the Mr. N. tree for the rap. Later, when I 3rd classed it again, I found that the real business was getting back down.