Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana
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This route is located to the left of Mr. Natural. It is better thought of as a top-rope route, since the first real pro is after the crux. This route can be easily TR'ed after making an ascent of Mr. Natural (8+).
Make some delicate moves under the overhang to a break which about 5 feet to the right of the arete. Pull the overhang on good holds (crux), and cruise the easier textured rock above. If you blow the crux on lead, you would land on a large boulder on your back.
Descent: Rap from the tree directly above the line. (60 feet)
SR, including small cams.
Luke making the reach without the heel hook that I...
Chuck doing a bizarre backstep that somehow enable...
|Comments on Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 1, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R
Getting started seemed to be the crux, and felt a little hard for 5.9.
A variation boulder problem start (just a few moves) is to pull onth the arete from underneith the left hand side of the base of the arete, essentially doing a big overhang move to gain the arete. This will probably feel like 5.10d. We called this boulder-problem start "Captain 4Z" at the time.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 24, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
"Captain 4Q" was apparently a comic and/or a character in a comic. Found only this on Google:"my list ...includes the forbidden fruit of EC Comics, Wonder Warthog, Captain 4Q, and other subversive intelligentsia."
|By Phil Lauffen|
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R
Fun TR from Mr. Natural. I didn't see any possible gear placements.
|By Mark Roth|
Apr 28, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R
This is called Santa Ana in the new book.
There is a nut placement on the left that would keep you from rolling down the trail, but probably not off the ground....
Crash pad might be better pro than gear.
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a X
I have no idea where the 5.9 rating in the books come from. This is spankin' hard!
|By Joe Huggins|
From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Sep 10, 2011
I guess we thought it was maybe 10- the first time. Then we all promptly soloed it, with the rope still on the Mr. N. tree for the rap. Later, when I 3rd classed it again, I found that the real business was getting back down.