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 ADVANCED
Cereal Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Jemima T 
Bee Tree T 
Born Again S 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Call of the Wild  T 
Capt Crunch T 
Doug Reed Solo TR 
Faith Based Initiative T 
Frankenberry T 
Frosted Flake T 
Fruit Loops T 
Good Samaritans T 
Granola T 
Green Eggs and Ham S 
Hungry Jack T 
Inner Peace T,S 
Jack Be Nimble S 
Mennonite Surf Party S 
Mid-Life Crisis T 
Name Unknown S 
Name Unknown (5.4) T 
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 
Obamanation T 
Petrified Frog T 
Sea Wolf T 
Shredded Wheat T 
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 
Whiskey For Breakfast T 
Wylen T 

Capt Crunch 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jeep Gaskin and Brad Shaver, 1976
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 3,620
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Upper section of Capt. Crunch.

Description 

Capt Crunch starts on the right edge of the backside of the cereal buttress. Look for the obvious wide crack start. You will be salivating when you look up at the uppers jams!

Location 

Located on the back right side of the Cereal Buttress. Look for the wide crack start, that goes through some blocks and finishes on bomber jams.

Protection 

Bring extra 3-4 inch gear for the wide section. No anchors at the top. Rap off trees.


Photos of Capt Crunch Slideshow Add Photo
Scoping out Capt Crunch.
BETA PHOTO: Scoping out Capt Crunch.
Capt. Crunch!
Capt. Crunch!
Lower part of Capt Crunch
Lower part of Capt Crunch
Capt' Crunch
Capt' Crunch

Comments on Capt Crunch Add Comment
Show which comments
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 4, 2008

Mellow climbing for the grade. Watch out for the somewhat dirty top out.
By Phoffmann
Nov 23, 2010

The first tree at the top of the route fell over in a storm. Belay way back from the edge on the next best tree.
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

With the other tree falling down, this route is a pretty strong candidate for a bolted anchor. The next best tree is pretty far back and not at all confidence inspiring.
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun climb, but would agree with Nathan that it is a touch soft for the grade (when dry). Wish it stayed more clean. As far as adding an anchor, I'm not sure how I feel about that, as the rap tree isn't that big a deal to get to, and you can still set up a TR with some long runners. As far as I'm concerned, any anchor would have to be placed in such a way that it still necessitates the top-out. You haven't finished this route unless you are standing on the ledge.
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jun 29, 2012

Regarding the need for an anchor: I completely agree with Robert's comment.
By Kevin DB
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Wouldn't complain if someone put in an anchor. It's pretty good climbing, pulling through the surprisingly solid death block roof is somewhat unnerving.
By caverdave
Feb 23, 2014

Put in a bolt anchor up top. Has anyone thought about the reason the trees are falling out. Because people are belaying off them. D'uh!
By chummer
Oct 20, 2014

Agreed, no reason not to put in a two bolt belay at the top. It will keep people from trampling the moss up on the ledge and maybe keep the tree alive too.

The route is plenty trad as it is.