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Cereal Buttress
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Aunt Jemima 
Bee Tree 
Born Again 
Breakfast of Champions 
Call of the Wild  
Capt Crunch 
Doug Reed Solo 
Faith Based Initiative 
Frosted Flake 
Fruit Loops 
Good Samaritans 
Green Eggs and Ham 
Hungry Jack 
Inner Peace 
Jack Be Nimble 
Mennonite Surf Party 
Mid-Life Crisis 
Name Unknown 
Name Unknown (5.4) 
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) 
Petrified Frog 
Sea Wolf 
Shredded Wheat 
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) 
Whiskey For Breakfast 

Capt Crunch 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jeep Gaskin and Brad Shaver, 1976
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 3,161
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 13, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Upper section of Capt. Crunch.
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>


Capt Crunch starts on the right edge of the backside of the cereal buttress. Look for the obvious wide crack start. You will be salivating when you look up at the uppers jams!


Located on the back right side of the Cereal Buttress. Look for the wide crack start, that goes through some blocks and finishes on bomber jams.


Bring extra 3-4 inch gear for the wide section. No anchors at the top. Rap off trees.

Photos of Capt Crunch Slideshow Add Photo
Scoping out Capt Crunch.
BETA PHOTO: Scoping out Capt Crunch.
Capt. Crunch!
Capt. Crunch!
Lower part of Capt Crunch
Lower part of Capt Crunch
Capt' Crunch
Capt' Crunch
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By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 4, 2008

Mellow climbing for the grade. Watch out for the somewhat dirty top out.

By Phoffmann
Nov 23, 2010

The first tree at the top of the route fell over in a storm. Belay way back from the edge on the next best tree.

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

With the other tree falling down, this route is a pretty strong candidate for a bolted anchor. The next best tree is pretty far back and not at all confidence inspiring.

By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Fun climb, but would agree with Nathan that it is a touch soft for the grade (when dry). Wish it stayed more clean. As far as adding an anchor, I'm not sure how I feel about that, as the rap tree isn't that big a deal to get to, and you can still set up a TR with some long runners. As far as I'm concerned, any anchor would have to be placed in such a way that it still necessitates the top-out. You haven't finished this route unless you are standing on the ledge.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Jun 29, 2012

Regarding the need for an anchor: I completely agree with Robert's comment.

By Kevin DB
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Wouldn't complain if someone put in an anchor. It's pretty good climbing, pulling through the surprisingly solid death block roof is somewhat unnerving.

By caverdave
Feb 23, 2014

Put in a bolt anchor up top. Has anyone thought about the reason the trees are falling out. Because people are belaying off them. D'uh!