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Capt Crunch starts on the right edge of the backside of the cereal buttress. Look for the obvious wide crack start. You will be salivating when you look up at the uppers jams!
Located on the back right side of the Cereal Buttress. Look for the wide crack start, that goes through some blocks and finishes on bomber jams.
Bring extra 3-4 inch gear for the wide section. No anchors at the top. Rap off trees.
Upper section of Capt. Crunch.
Lower part of Capt Crunch
From: western NC
Jan 4, 2008
Mellow climbing for the grade. Watch out for the somewhat dirty top out.
Nov 23, 2010
The first tree at the top of the route fell over in a storm. Belay way back from the edge on the next best tree.
From: Red River Gorge
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
With the other tree falling down, this route is a pretty strong candidate for a bolted anchor. The next best tree is pretty far back and not at all confidence inspiring.
|By Robert Hutchins|
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Fun climb, but would agree with Nathan that it is a touch soft for the grade (when dry). Wish it stayed more clean. As far as adding an anchor, I'm not sure how I feel about that, as the rap tree isn't that big a deal to get to, and you can still set up a TR with some long runners. As far as I'm concerned, any anchor would have to be placed in such a way that it still necessitates the top-out. You haven't finished this route unless you are standing on the ledge.
From: western NC
Jun 29, 2012
Regarding the need for an anchor: I completely agree with Robert's comment.
|By Kevin DB|
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Wouldn't complain if someone put in an anchor. It's pretty good climbing, pulling through the surprisingly solid death block roof is somewhat unnerving.