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Capo Noli

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Capo Noli  

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Location: 44.1962, 8.4251 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Tim Wolfe, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Mar 31, 2012
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Some mild DWS at Capo Noli. Watch out for sharp r...


Capo Noli is THE place for seaside climbing in Finale Ligure. The climbing here is right over the water and the setting is unique for the area.

Location location location.

Good climbing right above the beautiful, blue Mediterranean sea. Has a bit of a private feel to it, sheltered below the road traffic above.

South facing, this area could be hot in the sun in all seasons except winter. Fall and spring can be tolerable, especially if there’s a breeze.

Capo Noli is comprised of three sectors:

  • Dancing Dalle: a small area with the first 7a in Finale (the namesake of the sector, established in 1982). Around 10 routes, from 12 to 18m single pitch, ranging from a couple of 5c’s to the harder classics in the 7 range.

  • Pilastri: The pillars, an area with more features and popular grades from 5a to 7a+. 10 routes on two pillars.

  • Nolitudine: Possibly the most popular and comfortable sector, with an amusing approach and a large ledge to help keep the rope from getting too wet. A somewhat eastern aspect has this area going into shade in the afternoon. Around a dozen 1 to 3 pitch routes from easier 4b grades up to 6b+, making this a great place for folks wanting to climb easier routes.

Approach by rappel and/or fixed rope from the rim near the seaside paved road.

There’s also a couple popular seaside traverses. 400m 6a to 1500m 6b+ obl "Y2K" starting somewhere around the approach side of Nolitude, and, ending up at the Pilastri sector.

The area is also known for having a bit of moderate deep water soloing. Take care with the waves as some of the rocks on the exit are very sharp and most locations seem a bit undercut.

Getting There 

From Finale Ligure, take the SP1 highway, the seaside Via Aurelia, to the east. The cape sticking out between Varigotti and Noli is Capo Noli.

The climbing areas are bounded by the two tunnels, Malpasso and Capo Noli.

Parking area after the Malpasso tunnel on the left (non-seaside) for Dancing Dalle and another opposite Pilastri on that sector’s east side.

Parking lot for Nolitudine just past the Capo Noli tunnel (quick right when exiting the tunnel) prior to coming around into Noli.

Climbing Season

Weather station 14.9 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Capo Noli
Looking down Madunetta.

Madunetta 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Europe : Italy : ... : Nolitudine
Nicely situated in the middle of the flat base area, right above the water.Climb up just left of the statue. Large, blocky holds lead up a right-facing corner. When this corner peters out, climb up, then head slightly left picking up another right facing corner.Fun climbing and nice position with a base area that tends to avoid the puddles....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Capo Noli Slideshow Add Photo
Capo Noli too hot?  Take a dip!
Capo Noli too hot? Take a dip!
Traversing down and into the Nolitudine sector of ...
Traversing down and into the Nolitudine sector of ...
Capo Noli tunnel.
Capo Noli tunnel.
My son Tristan at Capo Noli
My son Tristan at Capo Noli

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