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pitch 1-clip a bolt and stem a strenuous face (very, very tricky 5.10/10+) into a bottomless chimney past 2 bolts to alcove (18m).pitch 2 Step around right to gain main crack and belay at bolt at base of chimney (5.7, 25m).pitch 3 Climb right side of chimney past 'death block' (repeat, do not touch) and belay in 3" crack w/ one bolt (5.7, 25m).pitch 4 Climb the spectacular overhanging crack in V chimney (mostly 2", 5.10+) to belay above "Y" w/ heads and cams (35m).pitch 5 follow crack up and right, then left at bulge to sloping ledge below 2 1/4" aid bolts (5.7). pitch 6, A.0 to summit OR step right to a newer bolt and 5.10 face to summit (10m).
NE face of End Dome (polar opposite of Days of Future Past). It is the obvious crack system.
Double camming units, .4 - #4 w/ extra 2", stoppers, and a ballnut can help at start.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on the crux pitch as I hang half way ...
Eric D starting the second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: After the climb. The route is the first great crac...
Me heading up the "crux" pitch. Proud onsight.
Leading up to the chimney pitch in one pitch from ...
No description needed.
Taking care of business on the handcrack pitch.
Looking down on pitch 1
Looking up at pitch 3
Pitch 3 seen from the base of the formation
Easy section above the crux
Clay at the top of Pitch 1
Clay battles the crux pitch
|Comments on Cap'm Pissgums
|By Minty Alpinist|
May 14, 2007
RickD - I recall you once calling this "The commensurate hardman route." Did you get any photos when you climbed this?
May 16, 2007
I think you mean "consummate".
I love this route name. I suppose I'm one of the few who remember the Cap'm.
May 29, 2007
This is from the cover of Zap #3 I think.........
Nov 5, 2007
The bolt at the end of the third pitch (the chimney) is not there anymore. It broke when I hanged on it, it must have been from the very first ascent (30+ years ago ?), a piece of history. I had set up a real belay, of course, and only fell 6 inches.
If the crux pitch is really 10+, then I should downgrade all the 10+ I've tried in my life. Including Abra.
Amazing route, my admiration for DB and MA who must have done the first ascent with mostly hexes and nuts.
Nov 5, 2007
I agree with Aleix, the crux pitch of Pissgums is 12 number grades harder than the crux of Abra. But I was stupid enough to climb it in shorts with no knee pad and no tape on the right hand. My blood stains should still be on the route in spots.
Pissgums is thee tick in the Stronghold, IMO.
Nov 7, 2007
Aleix...good work...you should post some more details about how it went.
Nov 7, 2007
Thanks John, since there is a request:
The crux pitch kicked my butt. I didn't tape my hand either, but I was following it. The kneepads did make a difference, EFR had strongly suggested them for a better "enjoyment" of the route.
Pitch 1: The hardest thing is to get off the ground... well there is no ground, but stepping over the "bottomless chimney" from the boulder and doing the first moves. Ends in a comfortable belay on gear.
Pitch 2: Grungy rock, interesting moves. Comfortable belay on two bolts.
Pitch 3: The most runout vertical pitch I've ever led. But it feels good, there is nowhere to fall in a squeeze chimney (!?). Half way up it narrows to the point I had to go to the lip and maybe do a couple of offwidth moves. Mostly hanging belay in a palm/fist sized crack.
Pitch 4: I followed it, so ask Eric D for leader account. Gearwise, the crack is palm size all the way. Crack at belay is also palm size.
Pitch 5: The belay on top of pitch 5 is on a horizontal groove-seam with a "shrub", which was definitely my best "anchor" :-) Placed many cams but didn't trust any. Must have been amazing with hexes, hip belay from a groove? :-)
Pitch 6: Committing move to a bolt, two friction moves and you just did Cap'm Pissgums !
If you guys think this is too much beta/talking, let me know and I'll delete this entry.
From: Tucson, Az
Nov 7, 2007
Bien hecho Alex! Por las fotos se ve de miedo esa ruta!
Nov 28, 2009
I thought this was a decent climb at best. The rock was sharp and loose/hollow in some places. The hand crack pitch stands out as the best pitch by far. The "runout" chimney is not very runout at all, there are gear placements.
Not a recommended route, although I absolutely loved the hand crack pitch. I can't imagine a 2" crack being any more difficult. I felt like puking after on-sighting it.
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 26, 2012
fun adventure climbing that will challenge your trad skills and mettle. the crux pitch is very, very burly. if anyone is interested in a topo for this route you can find it at www.toofasttopos.com
|By J. Hickok|
Mar 20, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
I felt like the first pitch was more difficult than the handcrack/slot. Handcrack/slot 5.10+ and first pitch 5.11- ... just my opinion - maybe I missed something on the first pitch that made it easier? Probably! As someone said, a decent route at best. Still very fun and worth doing of course!
Oct 10, 2012
Yeah, the bottom ten feet is pretty stout, I fell once there, and I know some good climbers have just pulled on the bolts.