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Capitol Reef National Park

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Basketball Wall/Slickrock Divide 
Borderlands, The 
Capital Gorge Boulders 
Capitol Gorge 
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Observatory, The 
Terrible Twos Wall 

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Behind the Reef Road
An easy ride providing access to magnificent slot canyons. Near Moab, UT
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Capitol Reef National Park 


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Location: 38.2843, -111.2477 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Paul Nelson on Aug 25, 2002
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Capitol Reef from above Fruita

Description 

Capitol Reef National Park has a fair selection of good Wingate crack routes. The only detractions are sometimes long approaches, and an NPS moratorium on any new anchor bolting. There is also a moseratelt good bouldering area about fifteen minutes to the west of the park outside Bicknell.


Getting There 

Get to Capitol Reef either by way of highway 24 (from I-70 to Hanksville, and then west to the park), or by highway 50 (east off of I-15 from Scipio to Salina, and then southeast on highway 24 through Loa, Bicknell, and Torrey to the park).

Most (if not all) of the actual climbing areas are along the scenic drive, a paved road that goes along the backside of the reef south from the park visitor center.


38 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',10],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',7],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Capitol Reef National Park:
Left and Right Practice Cracks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Terrible Twos Wall
Classic Handcrack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Capitol Gorge
False Premonitions    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 90'   Capitol Gorge
BFF   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Grand Wash Area
Phi Slamma Jamma   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Basketball Wall/Slickrock D...
Browse More Classics in Capitol Reef National Park

Featured Route For Capitol Reef National Park
An overview photo of the left side of Capitol Gorge showing False Premonitions and Capitol Gorgeous

Capitol Gorgeous 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Capitol Reef National Park : Capitol Gorge
This is the beautiful wide hand/tight fist crack of Capitol Reef. Climb a ramp to a stance below the large left facing corner. Climb up the corner to a two bolt anchor below the roof or continue through the roof, beware the possibly loose block, and continue to higher anchor. A stretchy 70 meter should get you down from the lower anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Capitol Reef National Park Slideshow Add Photo
Capitol Reef N.P. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Capitol Reef N.P.
Photo by Blitzo.
Capitol Reef National Park. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Capitol Reef National Park.
Photo by Blitzo.
Morman Dwelling-Capitol Reef National Park. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Morman Dwelling-Capitol Reef National Park.
Photo ...
Navajo domes atop Wingate cliffs.
Navajo domes atop Wingate cliffs.
Capital Reef N.P. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Capital Reef N.P.
Photo by Blitzo.
Comments on Capitol Reef National Park Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2013

Anybody climbed in Cathedral Valley? Looks spectacular but the rock maybe not so good. But better than the Fisher Towers?

www.terragalleria.com/parks/np-image.care21322.html

By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Jun 5, 2013

George

Cathedral Valley is indeed spectacular. Unfortunately it is off limits to climbing. From the close non-climbing inspection I have done of it is indeed similar to the Fisher Towers. Folks may have climbed on it prior to its closure (I am unsure of when it was officially closed). There are very similar towers further east (and out of the Park) along the northern edge of the Moroni Slopes and near Salt Wash mountainproject.com/v/the-mudstrosity/105717149