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Capitol Gorge
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Capitol Gorgeous  T 
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Capitol Gorgeous  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob van Belle, Jocelyn van Belle, May 1994
Season: Cooler months
Page Views: 1,406
Submitted By: Jared Spaulding on Mar 28, 2011  with updates from bvb

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BETA PHOTO: An overview photo of the left side of Capitol Gorg...


This is the beautiful wide hand/tight fist crack of Capitol Reef. Climb a ramp to a stance below the large left facing corner. Climb up the corner to a two bolt anchor below the roof or continue through the roof, beware the possibly loose block, and continue to higher anchor. A stretchy 70 meter should get you down from the lower anchor.


This gem is located a couple hundred feet left of False Premonitions and is on the right side of a large alcove. There is a faint trail that leads up to the wall from the wash. From where the dirt road crosses the wash the first time, hike up the wash past a lone juniper to where it becomes rocky; from this point small cairns mark a path up and right to the base of the wall in the vicinity of "The Big Three Inch" a left facing corner with two bolt anchor at the top.


A few smaller pieces for the initial ramp then lots of #3 Camalot/#3.5 Friend sized pieces and #4 Friends and some #4 Camalots.

Photos of Capitol Gorgeous Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sydney Hartsock top roping Capitol Gorgeous.
Sydney Hartsock top roping Capitol Gorgeous.

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By bvb
Feb 3, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

I was new to new routing on Wingate in the early 90's, so I botched this and put the anchor in too low. Killer splitter, though.
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Mar 13, 2013

Hey Bob, thanks for the information on this and a bunch of the other CRNP routes. And thanks for the routes...

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