This is the beautiful wide hand/tight fist crack of Capitol Reef. Climb a ramp to a stance below the large left facing corner. Climb up the corner to a two bolt anchor below the roof or continue through the roof, beware the possibly loose block, and continue to higher anchor. A stretchy 70 meter should get you down from the lower anchor.
This gem is located a couple hundred feet left of False Premonitions and is on the right side of a large alcove. There is a faint trail that leads up to the wall from the wash. From where the dirt road crosses the wash the first time, hike up the wash past a lone juniper to where it becomes rocky; from this point small cairns mark a path up and right to the base of the wall in the vicinity of "The Big Three Inch" a left facing corner with two bolt anchor at the top.
A few smaller pieces for the initial ramp then lots of #3 Camalot/#3.5 Friend sized pieces and #4 Friends and some #4 Camalots.
Sydney Hartsock top roping Capitol Gorgeous.
Feb 3, 2013
I was new to new routing on Wingate in the early 90's, so I botched this and put the anchor in too low. Killer splitter, though.
|By Jared Spaulding|
From: Central WY
Mar 13, 2013
Hey Bob, thanks for the information on this and a bunch of the other CRNP routes. And thanks for the routes...