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Grand Wash Area
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BFF T 
Capitol Flake T 
Sandy Dihedral T 

Capitol Flake 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Cooler months
Page Views: 306
Submitted By: Jared Spaulding on Apr 27, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: A photo of Unknown Flake (5.10)

Description 

Climb a hand, wide hand and fist crack behind a jagged flake to a two bolt rap anchor. This is mostly wide hands, I found the crux to be at the top getting to the anchor. The nature of the flake gives this route an exposed feel. Good desert climbing.


Location 

This route is about 25-30 yards left of BFF in Grand Wash and a hop, skip & a jump from a short 5.9 finger corner. It is just right of a chimney and leaning pillar. See overview photo.


Protection 

#1 to #3 Camalots with 4 #3 Camalots.



Photos of Capitol Flake Slideshow Add Photo
An overview of a couple of climbs left of the Terrible Twos Area
BETA PHOTO: An overview of a couple of climbs left of the Terr...
Comments on Capitol Flake Add Comment
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By Tyson Taylor
Oct 15, 2011

This I think is called Capitol Flake. It was put up and FA'd by Darren & Jen Knezzek. I'd sew it up a bit more than previous beta, an even mix of 2"-2.5" and 3"s, maybe even a 3.5" near the top. I guess I have less trust for sandstone, even windgate, placing a cam every 4-5 feet. Bring lots of runners for the middle and base. It takes a nice nut directional at the bottom. The flake is pretty flimsy looking 3/4 of the way up, so drive the cams super deep.

By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Oct 20, 2011

Thanks Tyson. I'll update the route name. Hope you enjoyed the climbing in the park. The tips crack to the right is a 5.7 eh? Seemed harder to me.