In the summer of 1993, Alan Nelson and I add five routes to this East facing crag to provide a shady place to climb. The five routes here were simul-drilled in about one day, so the guilt for any bad bolts can be shared by both of us. It is unfortunate that the crag sees very little action since the routes turned out to be fun and well protected. The rock had some friable surface in 1993 but this has cleaned up nicely. Numbering begins on the left with Free Enterprise (#1). Climbing runs from 5.10 to 5.12a with interesting moves through the roofs.
Eds. since this original post, additional routes have been done in this area. The original crag is now known as Upper Capitalist Crag and the lower/new crag is now known as Lower Capitalist Crag. To avoid duplication, this has been reorganized.
Getting There
Capitalist Crag is located on the East side of tunnel 3 and the easiest approach is to park as you would for the Wall of the '90s and hike the 300 yards along the road. The obvious wall with a roof in the middle is Upper Capitalist Crag.
Approach as for Upper Capitalist, but instead of going uphill to the crag, go down the broken hill to the southeast. Lunchmoney is located roughly hundred yards upstream from Upper Capitalist Crag. The chains are obvious from this point. There is a belay bolt on the ledge at the start of the climb. Climb up the steep face, pull through weakness in the roof to easy ledge system. The last three clips on the upper wall is the crux on a beautiful smooth flake. Rap 100 feet to ground. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I agree with Richard on the quality of the routes here. I climbed 3 of them yesterday and found them to be quite nice. The place still needs some cleaning (9 years later...) and this supports the fact that very few people climb here.
One note of caution!!!! There are a set of bolts at the top of the two most Western routes, a 5.10a and a nice 5.10c, the bolts are very far apart (due to the poor nature of the rock inbetween them I am assuming.) I would suggest rappeling off of these instead of being lowered, the forces are too great. If you intend on having an extended topropping session just bring a couple of slings and some lockers to decrease the angle.
The anchors Chris refers to now have chains. Thanks to whomever put those on, they were definitely needed.
Yesterday I went to climb Lunchmoney and tried the two 10s - Hours for Dollars and Get Rich. I was a bit apprehensive at first, thinking I should not bother with them since they only had one star in the guide. However, I would agree with the above comments. These are decent routes, and with the addition of Lunchmoney this may become a more popular area. It looks like there may be a few more decent lines here.
I discovered Capitalist Crag yesterday evening. A good place to climb that is out of the shade. Lunch Money was fun along with a route directly left of it. I dislodged several small rocks while climbing here, as the rock is dirty/rotten in places but worthy of another return.
Climbed here yesterday, agree with the above comments, these routes are much better than they're getting credit for. Long and sustained, high quality rock with a good setting. I didn't come across too much loose rock, the routes seem to be cleaning up nicely.
Why isn't there a page for Entrepreneur? I think that Entrepreneur is the best route here. I'd give it 3 or 4 stars for great movement and body positioning.
To whoever stole my draws off Free Enterprise at Capitalist Crag:
What is wrong with you? Seriously? Stealing someone's project draws? Really? I mean, stealing is bad enough, but stealing within our community of climbers who leave stuff up, in good faith, for anyone to use? Are you that poor? Or are you just that big a dick?
You deserve the absolute worst in life. I hope you get it.
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To everyone else: Don't leave draws here, or on Anarchy, as it's easy for conniving, worthless lowlifes to rap in and steal your gear.
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