Capitalism & Freedom 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 155 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup, February 2007 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Fienup on Feb 9, 2007 |
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Capitalism & Freedom topo
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Description Two sustained and varied pitches up the large formation on the left side of the gully, opposite "Permanent Income Hypothesis."
Pitch 1, "Capitalism" (5.10a/b, 80 feet, 5 bolts)
Steep, edgy face climbing. The crux is reaching and passing the second bolt. Belay at a ledge from bolts.
Pitch 2, "Freedom" (5.9, 85 feet, 8 bolts)
Face climbing, chimneying, and liebacking make for an extremely varied pitch. The faint of heart will want additional pro through the crux sequence above the fifth bolt (the crack takes a #1 TCU up to 1.5"). A thought-provoking, slabby finish takes you to an airy and exposed summit. Belay from bolts.
Location The route starts just a few feet left of "Permanent Income Hypothesis." Approach as for that route.
Two single rope rappels with a 60m rope will get you back to the start of the route. Descend from here by making one more rappel from the top of P1 of "Free to Choose."
Protection 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts. An optional cam or two (tiny to 1.5")--the 2nd pitch crux is not optimally protected because the rock near the crux is not solid enough to yield a reliable bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Another view of "Capitalism & Freedom," made from...
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Romain Wacziarg seconds the first pitch of "Capita...
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Romain Wacziarg nears the top of "Capitalism & Fre...
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BETA PHOTO: Capitalism and Freedom, 2nd pitch at the chimney /...
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Kelly Ringwald + unknown partner enjoying the view...
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Marisa Fienup approaches the summit atop "Capitali...
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Carolyn Libuser enters the crux sequence on the fi...
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hanging out at the first belay. Gabi, Jamie, and A...
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jamie concentrating on the balancey first pitch
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| Comments on Capitalism & Freedom |
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 12, 2007
| This formation gets my vote as the coolest summit that has been climbed thus far--GREAT position and great view of the other routes. |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 22, 2007
| "Capitalism" consists of the softest rock of any of the routes put up so far. Expect this pitch to change as it cleans up. The current difficulty rating is dependent upon a few small holds that may or may not last. |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 2, 2007
| The sequence that I use passing the second bolt is still intact and should last. Pull on positive, opposing side-pulls, hike your feet up, and reach for a good edge near the third bolt (5.10a).
This pitch is better than I remembered! |
By Kelly Ringwald
Apr 11, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| Excellent climb matt. Particularly enjoyed the chance to sink a jam or two (and even a pointless cam) on the second pitch. I thought 10.a was pretty fair for the first pitch, don't remember any tricky moves, and 10.b is about where I start to notice.
Watch your step at the base of this one, nearly stepped on a baby rattler all coiled up and invisible on the way out.
Climbed it again and I agree, it's got the best summit and climbing of all the Fortress routes. PIH is a close second just for the exposure on the arete though. Great stuff. |
By Eileen
From: Ventura, California
Apr 20, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b
| I thought the first pitch could deserve a 10a/b rating. I thought so the first time I went up but now that I've done it twice I'm even more leaning towards a 10a/b rating.
Definitely a lovely view! |
By Romain Wacziarg
Apr 28, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b
| I led this for the second time yesterday and agree with those who lean towards a 10b rating for P1. Some stuff may have broken off, too, between bolts 2 and 3. |
By Romain Wacziarg
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b
| It is possible to link the two pitches as one with a 60 meter rope. This makes for a great, continuous climb with little or no rope drag. Highly recommended. |
By Rob Chaney
Apr 15, 2009
rating: 5.10b
| Climbed this route 4/14/2008, on the first pitch there are several clean spots threw the crux sequence looks like flakes have broken off. I have climbed this before and it seem s harder now. there seems to be no good feet wile pulling the crux move. Definitely 10b.
Also we rapped off the back side to the base of Seven Steps to Heaven and got a nice bonus climb. Then rapped back down into the right side gully from the top of Seven Steps.
Climbed this one again on 4/18/2009 and after looking at the broken off flakes they look pretty aged and not recently broken off. the crux sequence is as Matthew decribes in his comment on 3/2/2007 but still I give it a 10b ratting. |
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